20 Best Epoxy For Plastic Radiator Repair (2023 Updated)

Bought this instead of permatex because ace hdwre did not carry permatex version. Big mistake for starters after 2 part mix it is still very fluid to start, never really thickens and hard to fill cracks as it just flows through crack does not stay on surface.

Ive repaired tons of plastic items and filling a crack with the epoxy is the goal so the break bonds together with the material. After 24hrs the bond material is still STICKY to touch hence not dry! Have a hard time believing this withstands 3900psi if it wont even dry! As far as a two part epoxy go with PERMATEX its thick out of container, FILLS the cracks bonding it and drys SOLID in less than an hour.

JB weld needs to go back to the drawing board on this one!.

I had a severe crack in my windshield washer fluid reservoir in my car. Replacements were way too expensive or not available in my area I can’t remember. Regardless, I decided to repair it instead using this JB weld plastic epoxy.

I made sure to clean the area really well and rough it up. I also deeply scoured the area for extra adhesion. After mixing well, applying and letting cure I tested the reservoir before putting it back into the car.

It slightly leaked. I applied more epoxy (I had plenty left) to the slightly leaky area. After letting that cure to rock hardness I tested for leaks again and it was flawless. This was sightly over two years ago.

I take notes on all my car repairs. 12/06/2018 and 122,300 miles. My reservoir has held up flawlessly ever since! Over 2 years and 20,000 miles. I wouldn’t at all be surprised if it lasts the rest of the life of the vehicle.

Love this stuff! Next stop: JB Weld High Heat for my exhaust. I hope I’m just as lucky. Highly recommend JB Weld Plastic Epoxy Stick!.

It’s not nearly as hard as the SteelStik (the dark gray putty made by JB Weld), but it’s really, really sticky. I needed to repair the handle on a steam mop, and when I got the pieces apart I saw it was ABS (thanks to the >ABS< mark on it - Sherlock Holmes I'm not), so I glued the edges with the black ABS pipe cement I had.

It was probably almost as strong as it was before, but that wasn’t very strong, so I got some of the putty and built up the inside of the handle around the break. I also did some experiments where I put bits of putty on the (slick) inside of a piece of ABS pipe I had in the garage (which I wiped off with my finger), and this stuff really sticks.

I managed to pull it off later, but only because the putty wasn’t fully cured and it broke, leaving part of the putty stuck on the inside of the pipe. Since I did a much better job of cleaning the inside of the handle and applied the putty much more carefully, the next time it breaks it will be somewhere else.

Note: A small ‘pencil-sized’ piece of the putty that’s been curing at least two days is still somewhat flexible – it didn’t break until it was doubled over, and it required significant force even then; almost as much as a similar pencil of the Steel-Stik putty, which was like a rock by then.

I suspect this is a feature rather than a bug; having some give in the handle will probably help prevent it from breaking where the built-up section ends.

Thought I could use this to “fill in” cracked ceramic cup but this is primarily for bonding purposes. Since I did not have the “chips” to reattach, I could not really use this. I originally was looking for Milliput but you did not have this in your store.

Keeping this for future use for bonding purposes.

I received the two. 85 oz. of quick setting epoxy. I mixed equal amounts of epoxy and they did not set up in several hours. They did set up nice and hard by the next day. I have been thinking about sending them back, actually I can’t use this stuff.

It is probably a good value if it did what you advertise and is of good quality if you can let it set for many hours.

I used this product over 20 years ago. Loved it then and used it again recently and loved it now. I used it to repair some polymer plastic and it worked great.

Easy to use, very strong bond, works great for metal and plastic repairs. Color works well with most of my repairs to antique model trains, plastic auto components and general household needs. Temperature and solvent resistant, it also allows enough set up time to clamp, with relatively easy cleanup of joints before final bonding.

I use about three or four syringes per year and have used this product for over 10 years with no complaints.

Intended purchase was for the clear epoxy, somehow by the end, the dark grey ‘steel’ color was ordered. Bummer! For me, this is the problem with online ordering. I don’t know when the switch was made and didn’t see it at the end.

It’s a highly rated epoxy by CR so I’ll keep it to use another day. Since I had waited a week for shipping, ended up going to Home Depot and buying JB Weld clear epoxy.

My aluminum radiator filler neck had a small seam leak. I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and scuffed up the aluminum with 80 grit sand paper. I mixed the product per instructions and applied. It was a bit runny at first and I let it cure for over 24 hours.

After 24 hours it was rock solid and has held up for 2 months so far.

Really strong two part glue! It will attach to almost anything. The only downside is that it takes 24hrs to completely cure.

Had to use on oil cooler, radiator hose connection in a pinch. Holding together well so far with jb weld high temp

This is a good glue at a very good price. I have used it to put scales on two knives thus far and the extended work time, stated as 30 minutes, really makes it easy to use. The work time might be slightly overstated at 30 minutes as it begins to jell somewhat before then but it stays usable plenty long enough to position and clamp the scales.

Great product in my opinion.

Amazing one of the if not the best that I found Epoxy resin. From the first time I used it and experienced the end result, wow. Like it a lot. You know what youre going to get at the end of a job!

Have used various types of Devcon for years. It is nothing short of amazingly brilliant. After following instructions it has never failed on any applications used. Expensive – yes but you get what you pay for.

You can repair metal objects that normally would be beyond repair and only fit for scrap. Highly recommended.

I work for a high performance tractor pulling company and we use this in our intake ports. It holds up to alcohol as good as any of the others we’ve tried. Over time it will shrivel, but you’ll get your season in before that happens.

I highly recommend this product for tractor pullers. It’s hard to please everyone, but this product is just as good as some of the high end products that simply cost more.

I waited awhile to review to make sure this stuff would hold up, and it has proven excellent! I put this to fill in imperfections and casting dips in a modified factory TBI truck intake after porting.

It’s held in for a couple years without issues and sands down super easy to a perfectly smooth finish. If you blindly feel the ports after finishing, you can’t tell where the aluminum starts and the epoxy begins.

No need to explain why Moroso and Summit have been so successful and long-lived. The epoxy putty works great and I’ll be getting more!

Brought this as a high temperature epoxy filler to cover up an electrical repair. Quick setting (mix and immediately fill else it goes too thick). Seemed to go hard within an hour. Left over night and was rock solid the next day.

Also used as body filler on a car panel repair. Was easy to apply and sand down afterwards. Didnt seem to stick very well to shiny metal, like aluminium or stainless steel, hence only 4*.

Sorted crack on my vw new beetle plastic bumper. It was about 20 cm long and this amount of resin was enough. I drilled holes on both sides of the crack and support it from back with plastic, builders mash.

Araldite is very smooth to work with. Takes very little effort to mix both components. Has long working time, it is stated 90 mins but I did a job in about 8 mins and during application on and around crack, it had nice texture, enough smooth to place it where I want but hard enough not to drop.

Hopefully my wife will pay more attention on walls, other cars bumpers and bollards so I wouldn’t need any of this repair stuff but reality is that in about two months I am at Halfords buying new Araldite.

I was tasked with repairing an old Swarovski figurine and researched how best to do it. It was only then that I became aware of the existence of epoxy that dries clear and colourless. I’m sure there are unbranded versions that are cheaper but the Araldite product was easy to use and did the job perfectly.

Make sure you read the instructions before use and DO NOT mix up the tube caps or you’ll only get to use the glue once.

I have beat my boat so bad on Lake Erie that I had five cracks on the corner break where the hull bends down to the transom two days before the first spring walleye tournament. I bought the G/flex 650k hoping to fix the cracks that I had that were starting to cause my bilge to run nearly continuously because there was no way I could get it welded with tournament season just getting ready to start.

After hours of trial and error trying to patch the bottom side of the boat, I found that I had to mix in enough hardener to make a very, very thick paste as I mixed this product. After several unsuccessful attempts to keep it from dripping down on me as it set up even as paste-like as it was, I found that I had to let the mixed up epoxy sit in the mixing bowl for roughly a half hour before applying it.

Also temperature control of 60 to 70 degrees in my garage seems to work best. I have run my boat as hard as ever since early spring when I first patched those holes with no further issues arising where I had patched it.

In the final tournament this fall, I also cracked the main weld on the keel of the boat roughly 14″ in length and that was a severe crack that almost sunk us before we made it back to the ramp. I also patched that crack with the same kit of G/Flex 650k and have had the boat airborne in 3 to 4 footers for long runs a few times since to test it out and it seems to be holding up just as well as the smaller cracks in the panels have all season long.

This stuff is very messy and hard to work with but it really is a cheap alternative versus having someone disassemble the boat to weld it up from the inside behind the foam. I have considered coating the whole hull of my boat with this stuff as it seems to be more durable than the.

100″ thick panels are.

Absolutely fantastic product, I use it for attaching scales on knives and for me it can’t be beaten, creates a really strong reliable bond, exactly what I need. 10/10

My boat’s leak was getting worse and this was recommended by a dealer who did not repair aluminum boats. The directions were clear and understandable and application was easy. I found a little goes a long way as I mixed too much, but the kit contains enough for two large applications.

I was glad to see they included 2 syringes and stirrers.

I used this to restore a thread that had been pretty well stripped. I have two bolts that hold my motorcycle radiator cowl in place. The thread stripped in one of the bolt holes and instead of heli-coiling the hole,i used the Permatex Steel Weld (it states on the pack it can be threaded).

I did this in the following way:- Applied a releasing agent to the bolt thread (i used good old olive oil-worked a treat) mixed the epoxy and applied a generous amount to the bolt and also pushed some into the bolt hole.

Screwed the bolt in slowly (was a tiny bit of thread left) and let the epoxy cure for 15mins before SLOWLY unscrewing the bolt. the olive oil allowed the bolt to release from the epoxy quite easily. I then just left the repair (new thread) to dry for 24hrs and HEY PRESTO.

It worked a treat : ) Just be aware that the above repair was done on a fairly low torque thread (attaching plastic cowls to the side of a radiator). Im not sure how it would go on a higher torque thread? The Permatex Steel Weld Epoxy worked for me so im happy with my purchase.

I used this epoxy to repair an external hairline crack in an aluminum engine block that was seeping coolant. After using a grinder disk to prepare the surface, I applied this epoxy over the crack and allowed it to cure for about 4 hours.

Then I applied a different epoxy over that and alert it cure for 24 hours. Just to be thorough, I used a block sealer internally added to the coolant. Time will tell, but it’s been 2 weeks and no leaking.

I’m satisfied that even if the leak returns, this product is not to blame. It cured hard and fast and seemed to fill the crack sufficiently.

I’m a steel worker and primarily work on steel bridges. It’s not uncommon to find cracks in load bearing joints which would normally cost millions of dollars to repair, not to mention the disruption in traffic.

With this stuff I simply fill in the cracks and within a few minutes it hardens and you’d never know a crack was there to begin with. Of course I still bill the city for several thousand dollars for the repair.

Easy to mix, sticks well, sets quickly but gives you time to use it first, I used it to stick a steel pin into a hole in hard plastic and 2 different hard plastics together, seems to have worked perfectly.

Clear as glass even when set unlike some epoxys, which makes repair and craft jobs so much easier. Good value because when you’re doing this sort of work you want it to be reliable and work first time.

I purchased this glue to repair a freezer drawer which had developed a crack, due to overloading over Christmas. I use Unibond products regularly at work and regard them as very good. I purchased through Ebay, and as always the product arrived quickly, and well packaged! So I removed the Freezer drawer and allowed to defrost overnight.

I scuffed the plastic along the crack, and mixed the glue as the instructions. I was surprised to see more liquid oozing from one nozzle that the other, but assumed it was supposed to be. So I applied the glue sparingly down each side of the crack, and then propped it up close to the radiator.

I checked it 10 minutes later, and was quite surprised to find it still tacky. It was still tacky the following morning. So I mixed more and applied it more liberally. The liquids this time came out more even.

This time it was dry to touch within 15 minutes. I left it for the day to cure beside the radiator, before putting back into the freezer. Its been ok for a couple of weeks now! I assume I just got a faulty pack, Not as nice as I had hoped, but it got there in the end.

Unsure if I would try it again though.

Used this glue to repair my caravan window that had separated worked very well but not a lot of time before it cures. Works very well but you only have one chance to do it right.

This worked well for me when filling in some gaps in tile mortar that resulted in tile flex. For those that said it remained soft and wasn’t sticky enough, I don’t think they mixed it properly. This was quite sticky and it was rock hard when cured.

I used gloves and did a rolling/ folding action in my palm to mix it. It gives off a slight smell and a bit of heat when mixing. A bit pricey for the quantity you get so one star taken off for that.

JB Weld products appear to perform very well in comparative tests. I’ve used the PlasticWeld to seal butt-joints in lengths of PVC rain water drainage gullies. If using it on PVC it’s essential to first clean the parts with methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) in order to provide a good key for the epoxy.

Also wear nitrile (or similar) gloves to mix the product to prevent natural oils from your hands contaminating the epoxy. It seems to be doing it’s job so far. Quite expensive, but probably the best product for the job I had, and if it lasts it will be well worth the cost – time will tell.

I was using the Gorilla brand epoxy in the piston dispenser, ran out and tried this instead. It works just the same. This comes in two separate bottles which is much easier to use than the piston pumps.

Much less messy. And you get a lot more. It hardens just the same as the Gorilla, and even smells the same. It is a good epoxy.

I used this to fix a radiator. I hit a deer and mine was busted at the bottom below the drain. I fixed the break with JB weld Tank and Plastic repair. Then after it set up, I pulled the drain plug out and used this to fill on the crack from the inside.

Its been two weeks and its still not leaking!.

Bonds very quickly, which is great to glue small pieces (craft) that cannot be held together for long. As far as I know this is the fastest of the strong epoxy type glues on the market. I would not recommend for large pieces since it hardens so quickly after mixing.

For craft it is perfect, it can also be easily painted, it’s pale color is rapidly covered and hidden. Can be used for a few months once opened and capped. In summary, awesome glue for craft and small pieces.

Have fun !.

Epoxy glue was used to try to seal a rupture on a driver side rear view mirror outer casing. The mirror had sustained some damage from backing out of the garage and hitting the side of garage door opening when driving in reverse gear.

Mixing the glue components was easy. I applied the mixture to the crack on the outer plastic casing and a solid hard bond was allowed to dry. After a month later, the bond split open and the rupture has reappeared where the glue seal was located.

The glue information said that it has the strength of 5020 PSI. Apparently, the inside of the rear view mirror was stronger than that.

Great product it really works it cures in 24HRS. I have use it before on my car follow the easy instructions and you’ll get the results you’re looking for. It’s hard to fine now days a good product that really works.

I used it to fix plastic and body trim panels and it has hold up. Very happy with the results. J-B Weld it’s been around for a long time and there’s a good reason why.

Tremendous stuff: it takes a while to reach full strength, but I’ll be using it in a huge range of repairs in future. Strong easily worked, and sticks to anything I’ve tried. Finally got a job done I’ve spent weeks – and gallons of epoxy trying to repair.

Its fixing a pole for some heavy curtains to a rather weak and crumbly wall – there have been several goes at this in the past – including by professionals – with no long term success. And the putty comes in usable quantities – I’d had loads of waste if I’d mixed up e.

g. West System Epoxy and fillers to do the same (small job). The only down side is its dull grey colour: but I’m sure I could cover it with another filler if it was in a more obvious place.

Excellent product, easy to use it did the repair that i needed without any problems this was a broken metal casting that the piece was missing from. Filled in the gap and then left tu fully cure before finishing off.

Easy to use and works very well indeed. Just make sure you clean the service really well and give it time to set. Would recommend.

Excellent product, I used it to glue together a rubber radiator hose that had cracked and so far it has held up well for a couple of weeks. Firstly make sure the material your bonding surface is clean or it will not hold.

I also applied this product to fibreglass material around the cracked hose so it would be a stronger seal. Happy so far.

I used this to mount a rear view mirror on the windshield of a car. The area where the mirror originally was installed was unsuitable to remount the mirror, so I cleaned a spot nest to the ole mounting location with alcohol and used a new Dorman rear view mirror mount.

I applied a small amount of epoxy to the Dorman mount and then placed it on the windshield. I held it in place a minute and then used painters tape to hold it afterward. I let it cure for about 12 hours and then mounted the mirror.

It’s holding like champ.

Has always worked for my projects I needed it for. I do have ONE complaint though and that is why I did not give 5 stars, but instead only 4 stars. The A and B tubes are NOT marked as to which one is the epoxy and which one is the hardener.

Sometimes you need to use a little less hardener to “create” a longer working time, and sometimes you need to add a little more hardener to initiate a faster curing time. I figured it out myself and will share that A is the epoxy and B is the hardener.

Perhaps Harbor Freight could take this into account and MINORLY adjust the packaging for the customer’s convenience.