20 Best Epoxy For Aluminum Boat Repair (2023 Updated)

I used to use lots of this resin for assembly when I was aeromodelling. This time I wanted an epoxy to cast in a thin layer on the bottom of garden bench legs to protect them from moisture. It isn’t a pouring resin, but thin enough to form a smooth layer perfectly and self-levelling too.

It worked a treat and the bench should last for many years. From past experience, it’s also a great adhesive for a multitude of materials. It’s easy to mix, not over-fussy about exact proportions and cures to a hard surface with no stickiness even in low temperatures.

A truly dependable resin with enormous strength.

Flows nicely. Perfect amount for hobbies. Nice dispensing arrangement. Depending on the surfuce it remains flexible. Don’t thin it, warm it up in a bath of hot water and it will be as thin as you need.

I place it in a plastic bag to preserve the labeling on the bottles.

Very strong glue, and easy to use. I used it to glue 4 x 70 mm thick oak planks together to make a panel 1 metre long x 85cm wide, for a carving. I glued each pair of boards separately. It was easy to mix and apply sufficient glue in the time before the glue began to set.

The joints are very strong. I wouldn’t use it where a longer open time is needed for multiple joint assembly etc.

Love the metering pumps. No guess work. I did order with the slow set resin and that was a good thing. Working in 80 to 90 degree temps and resin still set up fast, especially if I had 4 oz or more in the mixing pot.

Kept the resin in the fridge overnight to give me a little more working time. Working on a lot of underside locations. In those cases was good that the epoxy got tacky fairly quickly to put on fiberglass mat.

Got a good result.

Best material to do body work. Sands smoother better than Bondo. Open time is pretty close to ideal. Offers really good strength and adhesion and when prepped like the surrounding metal, it paints like metal.

Highly recommend. For my purposes, the gray product worked better than the white.

I’ve been using this product for the last 40 years. My Dad used Marine-tex back then to fill holes in sailboat decks when moving hardware. It was one of the few marine epoxies on the market. I’ve seen some crazy repairs made with this stuff like gluing center board trunks back into a hull.

Marine-tex doesn’t yellow or shrink like other products. It also has a wet consistency which seems to fill holes/gouges etc better and lay flat. Marine-tex is epoxy based, so it can be used above or below the water line.

The down side is that it is still expensive, and honestly, it all needs to be mixed in one shot. Accurate ratios are one of the secrets. I try to line up several jobs as to use it all. I am good at mixing epoxy, and have not been able to duplicate w West etc.

The original, and still the best. A tip is to use a razor blade while it is not fully cured, to trim off any excess, limiting sanding.

One of the best epoxy’s ever! It will dry hard and is sandable and drillable as advertised. When reinforced with fiberglass mesh you could practically mend anything. I have even epoxyed a broken transmission casing together where it cracked from a collision at one of the bolt holes.

I did this by cleaning first then epoxyed the inside where it touches together and then made a ring band around the hole. After drying I smoothed it and put it back on the vehicle and it worked fine with no leaks for years!.

Amazing! I have used other epoxys that claim the “same” but they did not hold up as well.

An epoxy for all seasons indeed. This stuff is great and useful for so many things. I had a front sight of a rifle that was too low – and they have not made replacement taller sights in 110 years. I needed help – so a very small amount of 2 part epoxy got the sight a bit taller.

The cured epoxy is able to be filed smooth and shaped to match the contours of the old sight – only a bit taller. It is very dark grey so it blended in seamlessly. I have competed in 2 rifle shoots at the local gun club (came first in the second!) and the sight is still firmly attached.

The barrel gets quite hot in these extended shooting competitions and nothing has moved! I think the epoxy works well and recommend it!.

Was totally sceptical at first to be honest if it would work, but done a few small jobs with it so far and it has stood up to the task perfectly,I even repaired my activity air fryer which gets super hot what I needed to fix and for weeks now its lasted with no issues at all,Id say its even stronger than the original part as that flexed slightly wheres Jb weld it absolutely solid.

Got to test it on a slight leak on my exhaust today so that will be a good test to see how well it holds up but if all the other reviews are genuine then it should definitely do it,fingers crossed,but I recon it will as done everything else Ive used it for up to date.

Cheap price to and havent got to use it all in one go unlike some others as its a resealable tube and a little actually goes quite a long way. Cant fault it at all really as worked well for my jobs whereas ALL other super glues ect have failed big time.

Personally I recommend this stuff and for a fiver just over you cant really go wrong. Top marks so far.

I bought this product in an attempt to seal a leaky radiator top on my 1998 Subaru. The top of this radiator is plastic and developed a crack due to a manufacturing defect. To be fair the car has 217000 miles on it.

I have tried a few other products and they mostly work but have over time failed to completely seal this crack. This is the latest attempt to seal that leak. I have not had enough time to make sure this time it will seal.

The product is easy to use as all you do is squeeze equal amounts of the two tubes onto a disposable surface (cardboard) then mix until it blends into a gray paste/putty. Then use whatever you find useful to apply and spread around.

I have found that it is easier to apply when the radiator is warm as this softens the mix and makes it easier to fill any cracks. The drawback to this product is that you will need to leave it untouched for 15-24 hours.

Devcon 5 minute epoxy in a pair of 125ml bottles is a lot more convenient and much better value than tubes or syringes which leak and get messy. I drilled a 2mm hole in the top of each spout rather than cutting them off.

This allows a thin bead of each part before to be dispensed, allowing accurate assessment of the relative quantities for accurate mixing and the strongest possible joint. I tend to put the epoxy and hardener on to the faces to be bonded and mix them there, avoiding waste.

Having been using a variety of other epoxies recently, I was impressed how Devcon 5 minute really did set quickly and hard, rather than staying rubbery for ages like a lot of other 5 minute epoxies. A bit of gentle heat from a hot air gun or hair drier reduces the viscosity and wets it out across the surface nicely.

All in all, Devcon DV20945 5 minute is easy to use, with minimal mess, and gives an excellent bond.

If you need more than one or two small batches of epoxy, this is a good choice. The equivalent amount in the tiny syringes is 10 syringes (. 85oz/ea). that would cost about $50. This is $15. The epoxy seems good, at 6 minutes it is starting to kick.

I used it to glue down a 10 foot piece of flexible LED strip in a spiral, so only 4-6 inches could be done at one time. This worked well, and the epoxy holds well. Mix for 1-2 min, work for 2-3 minutes and clamp.

At 10 minutes, it’s set enough to remove the clamps and start the next mix.

My ‘go to’ adhesive. Reliable and simple to use, I have even used for small moulding tasks. Highly recommended and the larger the pack more economical to use. This is my fourth pack.

I’ve used many types of glues in my lifetime. “Crazy glue”, “Gorilla glue”, and an innemerable legion of other generic brands and variants. But I can wholeheartedly say from direct experience that it doesn’t get any better than JB Weld’s products.

Even many other dual-chemical epoxy-based (hardener + resin) brands cannot hold up to JB Weld. I can also vouch for the efficacy of this JB Weld “Kwik” version. Yes, it does set faster, and also cures faster (in roughly half the time, compared to the original formula).

But its resulting tensil strength and long-term durability doesn’t seem to be all that much compromised in exchange for this faster variety. I have recently used JB Weld “Kwik” on repairing a handful of vintage telephoto lenses which are quite heavy in their all-metal and glass construction.

One of these lenses that I repaired was completely split in half (due to the lens being dropped onto concrete from a good distance). In just 6 hours of using “Kwik”, the lens looks and performs as if no damage has ever been done to it! The two previously-severed ends of the heavy-gauge metal tube of the lens (made of brass) which were joined together are COMPLETELY fused, as if returning the lens to its single-body construction! This “cold-weld” glue is the real deal, because the repair looks and behaves AS IF the metal ends were actually welded together! No “Super glue” or “Gorilla glue” can do that! Not even close!.

Thank you, JB Weld, for your unrivaled products! When I require reliable repair of extremely heavy severed parts (short of firing up an actual arc welder), I will continue to turn to you for my work.

Disclosure: I am not affiliated with JB Weld or any of its subsidiaries and partners. Thus, this is an honest-to-goodness GENUINE review from a hard-working repair man.

A new Warner clutch for a Hayter 56 costs about 190. John Deere sell half of the clutch (with the friction material) for 90. This cost 19 plus 6 for some JB Weld epoxy. A 5 minute repair with This cheaper option is every bit as good as replacing the full clutch and is much easier.

You only need to undo the bolt in the middle of the blade. You dont even have to remove the blade first. This is highly recommended. You might need an impact driver to remove the 8mm Allen bolt. If the bearing has gone, replace with a Nachi Quest 6205-2NSE9 which should cost around 8 at the same time as replacing the clutch plate.

Remember to clean up and fully remove the old clutch plate before installing the new one. Thanks for a great product at a sensible price.

What some people may not know is that the JB Kwik weld does not get as hard, or hold as good as the standard JB Weld. This is ok, that it what making it quick does to it. I had a long conversation with JB Weld support to learn this.

The slow cure JB Weld will make a stronger bond, so if you can wait a day or two, or three, regular JB Weld is what you want. I use the JB quick to hold parts in place, an hold plastic cases closed. For that it works well.

if you want to remove it way after it gets hard, it can be scraped and poked to get it off. Don’t try that with regular JB Weld though, it gets much harder over time. This is about knowing how to use each product so you use the right one.

Also, pay close attention to the ratio of 1:1, getting too much, or little of either will alter something. Too little hardener will slow down the cure, but in a big way, too much will speed it up in a bad way.

So get it right for the best results.

My neighbor gave me two very used skateboards saying, “my grandchildren might enjoy them. ” While the wheels and trucks were in good condition, the boards were pretty beat up. I sanded the boards down and started thinking of what I would use for filler.

I had picked up the quick setting epoxy on a previous visit to Harbor Freight but had not had the chance to try it yet, (I like JB Weld). I mixed up a small batch and applied the epoxy to several of chips and scrapes in one of the boards.

Several observations – when they say “quick set,” they mean it. Only mix as much as you can spread in about three minutes as that’s about all the working time you have. After five minutes, the product has set, but still has a “rubbery” or “plastic” feel to it.

I set my board aside to let it cure overnight, and the next morning, the epoxy was rock hard. I couldn’t get over how durable it was. I even tapped it with a hammer, (firmly, but not like I was driving a 16 penny nail).

I dried clear and I was able to sand it smooth and even with the rest of the board. I readily held paint and today, the board looks brand new. This stuff is great.

A new Harbor freight opened up in my home town. So I went in just to shop around and picked up this quick set epoxy since it was a cheap prices just to have on hand. A few days later it was put to the test.

My 9 year old washing machine started leaking water. Come to find out if it had a rust spot on the inner drum. By the time I buffed it out it was the size of half a dime. This epoxy claims to be waterproof so I decided to try it.

I used it to glue 2 pieces of is steel flashing on each side of the hole the whole and let it set for the recommend 24 hrs. It worked perfectly. Great product that a great price!.