20 Best Rock Climbing Shoes For Women (2023 Updated)

I’ve gone through 4 pairs of Tarantulaces now. They’re one of my absolute favorite sets of shoe I can wear all day, beat up, and not feel bad about it. They don’t have the greatest technical performance and I can definitely tell the difference when wearing a higher performance shoe, but I don’t feel like that’s a very fair comparison to make when you take a look at the prices.

TLDR: These aren’t the greatest shoe, but they’re hard to beat at the price. My first two pairs were the older orange and black style and, since moving to the red and black, I’ve run into a few quality concerns and I removed a star.

My first pair ended up tearing away the metal eyelets that hold the laces and my current pair tend to lose a lot of rubber on the -inside- of the shoe, so before each climbing session I have to dump out little pieces of rubber that have worn away from the inside heel.

I still highly recommended these for newer climbers looking to pick up their first pair of shoes or someone who just wants a casual pair you can beat up. These shoes -will- stretch after breaking them in a bit and, like a lot of La Sportiva shoes, you’ll generally want to get a full size to two sizes smaller than your street shoe.

After breaking in, I’ve personally found these to stretch a full size for me. I also have very wide feet, but these were able to stretch and accommodate fairly well. These shoes also WILL bleed color onto your feet for a little while you’re wearing them, so for the first few climbs don’t be surprised when the top of your foot is red.

When looking at a new shoe sizing is always the most difficult part, even if you can try them in locally. Will they stretch? How much? And if you can’t try them on then it’s even more difficult! I just got these today and haven’t climbed in them yet, so I also don’t know how much they will stretch but wanted to provide thoughts on sizing and initial impressions.

To start, I’m typically an 8. 5 US Mens street shoe, which equates to a 41. I purchased the Futura’s one size down, so a 40. I have a pair of 39. 5 Miura VS, 39. 5 Katana Lace, and 40 Katana Lace. The Futura 40 feels tighter than the Katana lace 40 but not quite as tight as the 39.

5. The Katana I’ve only worn one day so it’s not fully broken in yet. I don’t know how much the Futura will stretch but I’m glad I went with the 40, it definitely feels as if I won’t have any concern of it being a performance fit.

I’m not using it as a project shoe so actually hoping for a little stretch 🙂 I wanted a “comfy” performance shoe for warm ups and to be honest I wanted to try this whole no edge thing. I typically climb at Smith Rock (sport climbing) where the feet are typically small edges and nubbins even on easier grades (10’s and under).

I currently climb up to 12’s and have played on 13’s on TR (even though that’s over my head!) but I would feel confident in the 40 Katana laces. The 39. 5 I would use maybe for Redpoint attempts. So, I guess what I’m saying is that I think one size down in the Futura should be a great shoe without having to go crazy tight.

Btw, the 39. 5 Miura VS are a project fit for me. Definitely come on for one route then off. I don’t see how people go 2+ sizes down haha and I’m on some tiny edges already just fine. Depending on stretch, and the purpose I got the Futuras for, I could probably even have gone with a 40.

5, but time will tell after I break them in. Super stoked about these though!.

I really loved this shoe from the first time I put it on. I have a longer narrow foot and this seems to be a good shoe for my foot. I wear a 10 Woman’s street shoe and usually get a 41 (US 9. 5) in La Sportiva’s.

I like my shoe to be snug but not painfully so. With this sizing I still take my shoes off between routes but could leave them on if necessary. Previous to this shoe, I used the Otaki’s – which I also really liked, but they seemed more difficult to break in.

After wearing this shoe for about 4-5 months – once it felt good and broken in, I did feel like my (very narrow) heel started slipping more than I’d like. It never seemed to have a really tight fit. So for this reason, I would consider a tighter shoe if I wanted performance over comfort.

As far as the no-edging technology, – I really like it! I feel like it was instantly easy to adjust to. maybe this was because I wore my old shoes until they had no edge and no grip so it wasn’t an accurate comparison.

The only thing I’m disappointed with is that the shoe is already wearing through after 9 months — this may not be a lot for avid climbers but I climb about 2 times a week indoor. My other shoes have lasted at least 3 months longer.

Additionally, I’m reading that they cannot be resoled. If this is accurate (I’m still waiting to find out), then they seem kind of pricey for the quick wearing out. Other than that I’m quite happy with these!.

These shoes are so versatile. I use them on steep lines and slabs. They work so well on almost all angles. The perform superbly where soft shoes (like the Python) excel, and I have also let me Miura’s stay in the closet ever since buying these as these perform as well on lines where I used to like the stiffer Miuras.

They have an amazing mix of sensitivity with a weird ability to confidently stand on small edges (smedging). They are very comfortable for an aggressive shoe and they also hold-up really well. I have had good luck with resoles turning out really well (rock and resole).

These are my favorite shoes for high performance. The two places they do not excel at are heal hooking and stabbing into very small pockets (like at Ten Sleep). For routes that have super small pockets or technical heal hooks, I would use Solutions, but for almost anything else, the Futura’s outshine them all.

First, a couple of caveats; different climbing shoes/brands favor different macro foot types (wide forefoot, a narrow heel, etc. ) and different toe box shapes (Greek, Egyptian, square, etc. ). I have always found all La Sportiva footwear products to match my feet better than other brands, and I have a narrow heel, tall arch, wide forefoot, and Greek toe box.

I have been climbing in Katana Laces for many years, so I was very very excited to see the new Katana Lace update drop, and hands down, these shoes are absolute perfection. The lace version of the Katana is very different from the Katana strap, and the lace box allows you to dial in the fit precisely to your foot volume Having a few different La Sportiva climbing shoe models I regularly use, I particularly love the Katana Lace on hard face climbs – they can edge on anything! But then you add the rigidity of La Sportiva’s P3 platform, and the result is you can transfer the power of muscular movements through the shoe to the hold to complete very dynamic moves.

When you combine this with the downturned structure of the shoe, the result is they excel not only on face climbs but also on anything overhung. I often bring these as my first choice to my local project or for a gym session.

That said, I will say that due to the shoe’s snug, downturned toe, performance orientation, they are not my first choice for long multi-pitch or alpine days. Now, the new update is absolutely perfect—a reformed and refined version of its predecessor.

The rubber mix used in the construction is the same but cut slightly differently. This is seen in the extension of rubber over the knuckle of the big toe (which is great and noticeable!). Also somewhat different is the heel rubber is both more narrow and has a thicker depth.

I have found this update to make a difference when trying to lock my heel into a solid heel hook. Last of all, I find the new construction methods have made for slightly more compression in the forefoot, further increasing stability and support.

La Sportiva took one of the best shoes on the market and made it a masterpiece. Such an amazing climbing shoe!.

I am thoroughly impressed. I seriously felt like Cinderella the first time I laced these. The shoe is constructed with just enough space in the heel pocket and toe box so you don’t feel pinched, but you can also adjust the tension with the laces to close the gap.

So it’s a very versatile climbing shoe! For technical slabs or indoor bouldering, I tightened my laces and laced the shoes to the top of the tongue, while for easier pitches I lessened that tension. As someone who’s mostly climbed with velcro shoes, this was a nice change for me.

It’s easier to climb all day or for longer periods of time when I can choose how tight I want my shoes to be. Plus, our feet swell a bit when we start climbing, and it feels like La Sportiva had that in mind when designing the shoe.

I also found these worked really well for me since I have slightly wider feet. Another pro – these were also the easiest pair of shoes I’ve ever broken in. After my first hour of climbing, the leather really molded to my feet.

And although I had some red spots, I didn’t get any blisters. I admire how they stitched and glued the shoe, so no matter how much you’re sweating, climbing, or tiptoeing, the shoe isn’t going to dig into your skin.

I think these are a great choice for a climber who wants to transition from a neutral shoe to something more moderate and stiff. Pros – comfortable, versatile, easily adjustable, and can perform well for different types of climbing (indoor, bouldering, and sport climbing).

Cons – not the best bouldering shoe. It can hold its weight at the climbing gym, but there are better shoes on the market for bouldering.

I’ve had a really tough experience trying on various moderate shoes. Just putting them on is incredibly painful somewhere in almost every shoe. The Katana Lace is the only moderate shoe besides the Kubo that actually felt COMFORTABLE.

I put my foot in and rejoiced. These have that snug feel but wow are they comfortable when you slide your foot in. There’s some asymmetry and some downturn, but not so extreme that sitting there with the shoes on is like putting your foot into a vice.

The tongue is squishy and cozy, the laces are long enough to give me a good grip to tighten as needed. I felt like I could leave the shoe a bit loose over the top of my foot, but keep it as snug as I wanted around the the ankle to get a good fit, and the laces stayed gripped where I needed them and didn’t ease up.

As my first lace up climbing shoe this was really nice and I find that perfect fit is really exciting compared to my Velcro Kubos (which I still love, I’m sorry Kubo). The heel rand was also supportive without digging into the back of my Achilles! The Katana Lace is a flexible shoe.

There’s a break in the sole rubber that allows some bend in the foot near the arch. I personally like this slight flexibility during my indoor bouldering sessions but be aware of it if you’re looking for something more rigid.

The “women’s” are more flexible than the yellow “men’s” version. If you like a flexible shoe, even slightly so, this might be your jam. For comparison, they aren’t quite as flexible as my Kubos, which was also nice to explore.

Some flex in the arch, but rigidity where it’s needed. The heel hook on this was like glue. I wore my Kubos and the Katanas back to back for the same route involving a heel hook and when I wore the Katanas I felt incredibly stable, to the point I had to think real hard about pulling my heel! I was surprised with the level of grip I could get with less pressure.

Edging is solid too. Getting on tiny toe chips… not a concern. The only thing I found this shoe didn’t do real well with was smearing of course. I didn’t expect that this would be the highlight of this shoe given the profile of it but it’s worth mentioning.

I could see a world where The Katana Lace and the Kubo are all I need. (dear La Sportiva, please never stop making these two shoes in my size). All around I really enjoy this shoe. It’s made really well and feels like the perfect blend of comfort and function.

I could wear this all day and still feel the advantages of the shoe. From a sizing perspective, obviously it’s always best if you can try them on and get just the right fit, but sometimes that’s not something you can do.

I found that these were somewhere between 1/2 to a full size larger than the Kubo. I received free product in exchange for an honest review.

I recommend the comp solutions to everyone within earshot. I got my first pair in June of 2020 and it took me until May of 2022 to finally wear a hole in them. Long lasting and reliable with good footwork! They are a dream for a slab specialist like me, or overhang junkie —soft enough to transmit the feel every micro edge, but supportive enough to let you stand hard into them too.

The sharp beak of the toe and knife edges allow you to kiss the wall in style. The large toe patch is great for smearing the top of your foot against the wall for balance in a tricky slab problem, or keeping you snugly in place on an overhang.

I really appreciate the lower profile heel cup —I find the ones on the original solutions to be too bulbous and deep. The rubber is delightfully sticky on the comp solutions, and if we’re going to be superficial about it: the red and blue is far superior to the white and orange of the originals.

All in all I can’t say enough good things about the comp solutions. La Sportiva, you better keep making these!.

The solution comp provides the perfect combo of precision and sensitivity! I currently own the Skwama, Solution, and Genius from La Sportiva, and this shoe fits into that line up as a nice blend of all three.

The profile of the toe box provides the precision I love from the regular Solution. With the pointier toe, you are able to easily place all of your power down onto tiny edges or cram your toe into smaller pockets.

The sensitivity of the shoe and the increased toe hooking rubber brings in my favorite elements from the Skwama. It is so easy to trust your feet in these shoes! I’ve now tested these shoes on both polished limestone smears and pockets at Wild Iris and on the smooth slippery cobbles of Maple and Echo Canyon, and they performed extremely well across the board! Lastly, the heel on the comp model is updated from the 3d molded heel of the regular Solution.

The heel was my least favorite thing about the original Solution, but my complaints have been remedied with this new update. The heel is much lower profile, similar to that on the Genius, and it feels far more sensitive and responsive than the regular Solution.

I think this is an excellent all around shoe. It has the precision for small holds and the sensitivity for smearing on insecure placements. The closure system allows your heel to feel rock solid in the shoe, and the toe-hooking patch is massive.

Pick up a pair and you won’t be disappointed! As for sizing: I wear a 41. 5 in Skwama and Genius, and 42 in regular Solution. I went with 42 in these and they feel great. Update: I have now used this shoe for indoor climbing as well as outdoor bouldering.

This shoe is perfect for bouldering. The heel and toe both stick well for all of your technical hooking needs. The sensitivity and precision this shoe provides works perfectly on almost any boulder problem, indoor or out.

I have pretty wide feet for a female (D) and even though these shoes are good for a slender foot, they still fit me really really well. My pinky toes are cramped but not uncomfortable and the heel and toes are exactly where they should be.

I’ve actually never had climbing she’s that fit so well before. The things I was most impressed with are the comfort of these shoes. The lining is so insanely comfortable inside and the lowered heel never digs into your Achilles it’s amazing.

The rubber is insanely grippy and very sensitive so you can feel the smallest holds ar the gym and outside they are beautiful sticking to the rock like glue. This was just the perfect shoe for me since I needed a step up from my beginners but still don’t want to go too aggressive.

These have a lovely slightly pointed toe for dime edges while maintaining support while standing on small holds. Smearing is so great with these too. It’s nice to know they won’t really stretch all too much and I sized them to my street shoe.

I can wear them from around 20 minutes when I first got them and after they molded to my feet an hour. While you do take them off for a little bit your feet are still ridiculously comfortable. The only downside is the price but I’ll be buying these as my shoes for now on !.

These are a perfect fit for my narrow, low volume feet. I have a difficult time finding climbing shoes that fit the shape of my foot without pinching my achilles tendon, and these don’t pinch. I’m a big fan of 5.

10 Stealth Rubber – the most grippy and durable I’ve ever had on a climbing shoe. Since they’re synthetic I found I didn’t get much stretch, instead they moulded to the shape of my foot. Yes they do stink up faster than a leather shoe, but I’ve found the best way to get around that is by using DryPointe inserts.

MEC doesn’t sell them but look them up! They’re fantastic for reducing smell and sweaty climbing shoes. If you’re looking for an all around shoe that’s a little bit more technical, a little bit more tensioned, these are worth the price in my opinion.

I’m normally a size 35. 5 in La Sportiva, a 37 in Scarpa, and a 37. 5 (or US size 7) in these Anasazi’s. When sizing members for this shoe they tend to fit either their street shoe size or half a size up.

If they fit the shape of your feet, I highly recommend them.

I’ve been climbing for 7. 5 years and have been wearing the Five Ten Sirens because they’re so comfortable – don’t need to break them in at all. When Five Ten stopped making the Sirens about 2 years ago, I tied other brands but they didn’t fit narrow feet.

I tried the Anasazi and they’re just as comfortable and don’t need to be broken into either. They’re a great all around shoe. Good for routes. Good for overhangs. Good for bouldering. Note that these shoes fit small, so size up.

I wear 6. 5 in street shoes. I had to buy the 7. 5 Anasazi but both the 6. 5 and 7 were painful. Another lady in the climbing gym sized up 1. 5.

I like these as a training shoe, as they have a soft flex, so they force me to put a little more work into my climbing. They are quite comfortable because they are flat. I can?t understand all the reviews that say size up.

I?m a size 8. 5 street shoe and buy these in a 7. Climbing shoes are supposed to be small! The Velcro is great for an easy on/off between routes. This is definitely intended as a gym shoe, and it?s very low volume in the heel cup so you can wear it snug.

Decided to try a neutral shoes after years of using only aggressive shoes. I got a 37. 5 as 37 felt painful. Unfortunately, once I broke them in, an hour into my sessions I have to keep on re-tightening them.

I have sweaty feet. The straps are not holding up well at the closure buckle, due to the constant tightening. In addition, because of the synthetic material, they do stink more than leather. The lining is okay, no superior comfort to be expected.

Otherwise, the rubber holds up well, edging is solid and the slip-on tabs at the heel only occasionally get in the way of my heel hooks. My search will continue for a better all-round climbing shoes.

I used to cringe every time I put on my 5. 10 Stealth that I owned for waaay too many years. They just never fit right. I finally got sick of shoelaces and the pain and decided to try something new. I had my $50 giftcard to get rid of so out of the blue went to try some climbing shoes.

Wow, and wow. My indoor climbing experience has completely changed because of the Evolv Elektra. I am mad at myself for not doing this sooner. From the moment I put them on they felt perfect (I have very bony ankles).

They feel sticky on the wall and are great for edging. For such an affordable shoe I am more than impressed. The Velcro and padding are very comfortable. My feet are snug but not in pain. I even feel that my climbing has improved because of them.

I am not a 5. 11 climber, but the Evolv feel excellent on anything under 5. 10. No complaints whatsoever.

This is my second pair of climbing shoes, and my second pair from Five Ten. (The first being the Rogue) Now it may just be time I’ve put into climbing or it may be that these shoes are magical, but as soon as I broke these puppies in, I went from struggling through V4s, to struggling through V5s.

and loving it. They’re not too aggressive in the fit, and I can wear them for indoor bouldering for a good 3 hours without needing to let my tootsies breathe. All in all, it’s a good shoe for the money and the skill level.

I tried these on at a local non-moosejaw store and they didn’t have a 14. Moosejaw did! These are incredibly comfortable (in the sense of climbing shoes). The heel cup and arch are well supported and hug tightly to prevent your foot from slipping in the shoe.

The 5. 10 rubber works exceptionally well. Overall, I think this shoe is definitely worth buying!.

These are my second pair of climbing shoes after wearing my previous ones for a couple of years. I would consider myself an intermediate climber and I rarely boulder. I’ve been wearing them for two months of sport climbing, on average twice a week.

Definitely took a couple of sessions to get my feet used to the feel of a tighter toe box but now that my feet are used to them they really have helped my climbing. I can see a big difference in my toe work.

I usually wear a size US 8 but 7. 5 in climbing but ended up buying an 8 after trying both pairs. They are still tight on my foot. Overall, I really enjoy these shoes and wish I would have purchased them sooner.

I’ve had a few pairs of this shoe for a couple years now and it’s the perfect climbing shoe. This model is also an upgrade from the 2018 version. They are technical and a tiny bit aggressive, but still softish.

The best part is the closure system. The length of the strap is adjustable, which is amazing because the shoes do stretch a tiny bit as you break them in and they mold to your feet. And even after breaking them in, they’ll be tighter when they’re fully dry and looser when wet from sweat.

Being able to adjust the length of the strap is critical and means that I can always have a perfect fit. Speaking of fit, I have narrow, low volume feet and these are one of few shoes that fit me well.

(If you have higher volume feet, check out the men’s version, Kronos). And they are very comfortable for climbing shoes. The only weird thing about these shoes is the history of the sizing. I had the 2018 model (which was also great) in a size 8, but a size 6 in these fits exactly the same.

I’m not sure why they changed their sizing. My normal street shoe size is 7. 5ish. Overall, these shoes are my absolute favorite and I hope they never get discontinued because they are my forever climbing shoe— I buy a pair whenever I can get a deal.

I wish Evolv made a more aggressive version of the same shoe!.

When shopping for my next pair of aggressive bouldering shoes, I found that my heel would slip slightly out of the shoe when aggressively pointing my toes. the instinct is the first and only shoe I found that didnt do this.

I also have extremely wide feet, and these do not bind my toes together like I found that many other shoes did. however, they are slightly shallow in height, so every once in a while I have to pop my heel out because I felt pressure from the toe rubber pushing down right on top of the knuckle of my big toe.

they are decently stiff, which is good for me because I weigh ~190 pounds. BUT, dont let the sx edge rubber scare you; I have not noticed that they are slippery when smearing on volumes. They still grip quite well for heavier climbers, while still being sensitive enough for overhangs and roof problems.

the toe is very pointed and quite precise, which is good for improving your footwork. I’ve come to realize I prefer one big velcro strap over more intricate lacing systems, like the la sportiva solution lace or the evolv phantom lacing system.

I feel like a big strong velcro strap locks my heel down into the shoe better than thinner laces. That’s just my opinion though; I know that others disagree. Now for sizing: take this with a grain of salt, since I have quite wide feet and I have never been able to downsize aggressively like other people on forums say they do.

My street shoe is US 11 (sometimes 11. 5). I got the instinct in EU 43. 5, which equals US 10 1/3. I could probably size down to a 10 for ULTIMATE tightness, but im sorta a baby and dont like cramming my feet into super tight shoes.

With the 43. 5, my toes are slightly curled, toes touching the front, but do not feel like theyre suffocating. Good mix of performance and comfort, and I can wear them for several attempts before popping them off.

For other reference, I tried the Evolv Phantom in size US 11. 5, which was my comfort fit where I could where them for longer periods of time without having to take them off, and in size US 11, where I pretty much had to take them off after every boulder problem I tried, because they were too tight.

Sizing was a huge problem when I was shopping for new shoes, so hopefully this helps anyone that is interested in the instincts!.

I have a wider foot with a lower foot volume and smaller heel, this makes many shoes like the solutions fit very awkwardly. I am a street shoe size 9. 5 with the exception for the rare 9 if the shoe is very wide or 10 if the shoe is narrow.

After trying on the 9. 5 and 10 I chose the 10. The Vapor V fit well out of the box and got continually more comfortable as they broke in. They broke in about half a size so I could have possibly downsized half a size but I have very little dead space in the shoe overall.

A few months in, climbing about 4x per week they show pretty mild wear. The first part to show wear was the straps which I have noticed get in the way while toe hooking slightly. While the straps have shown some wear they have not ripped or broken down majorly in any way.

The toe box is chunky and not very sensitive with plenty of rubber, stiff and pointed making them great for edging. The XS edge rubber has been great for edging in all situations and particularly outdoors but just okay for indoor use.

Overall the shoe is not your best smearing shoe but can get the job done. The midsole is flexible allowing the shoe to be more comfortable while having a stiff toe box. These shoes are great all around shoes and have become my main outdoor shoe.

Very comfortable for long days yet precise but not the best rubber for indoor use. I do enjoy these and how they’ve broken in so I will likely get them resoled in XS grip 2 rubber when they wear out for better indoor use (primarily what I do).

I’ve been using these indoors with the intention of outdoor use as well since the rubber is stiff and thick. I tried on a pair in person and the sizing felt pretty good at euro 37, although there were no half sizes to try on and I’m about a 7 womens in street shoe size.

When buying online I opted for a 37. 5 just in case. SO glad I made that call! Turns out a completely fresh pair is quite the challenge to break in, especially when the shoe is more stiff than the slipper styles I’m used to.

In retrospect, I think a euro 38 might have been even better. This is coming from a person who thinks “performance fit” is kinda overrated so take that with a grain of salt. I really appreciate the small heel – so many shoes have gigantic heels.

I can finally heel hook with confidence. What’s more surprising to me is how nice and roomy the toe box is, as well. You don’t typically see shoes that accommodate small heels and long toes and bunions.

I also like the thick, grippy rubber. Coming from shoes like the solution it’s a bit of adjustment in terms of feeling like you don’t have any feedback to your toes. That being said, the edging power you get is the tradeoff for the lack of sensitivity.

It also means these shoes will probably perform better outdoors on sharp limestone (and probably last longer, as well). My only complaint about these shoes is the tongue causes pressure points on my metatarsals.

The stitching is a bit sloppy and the tongue itself is weirdly stiff. In a shoe that excels in so many areas it’s a bit sad that the tongue is designed almost like it was an afterthought. I think it’ll soften up over time but it still seems like a strange part of a shoe that is, overall, pretty great.

I’m trying shoes other than Solutions because I’m fed up with the strap always breaking. Naturally, I wanted to try other sportiva shoes, and opted for the womens’ skwama (lower volume because heel cup fit is a key consideration for me).

After a trip to Red Rocks and many gym sessions, I can conclude that it just can’t quite measure up to the standard the Solutions have set. My biggest qualms with the Skwama include: The upper toe rubber is lacking – after a month of use it’s already beginning to peel back and separate from the leather shoe upper.

There isn’t as much of it, or it isn’t as thick as other shoes, and you can feel the difference. It’s not as aggressive as the Solution – the hard rubber plate in the sole doesn’t extend through the mid foot for one, which makes toeing into things ever so slightly more strenuous.

The drop angle of the toe is also milder than on the Solution. I get that the Skwama is more of a comp shoe intended for dynamic movements and landings… I just wish they’d make solutions with thicker straps and don’t know who to blame ;( All around a great shoe for it’s purpose.

This is my 4th pair of Skwamas. I switched during COVID when it was hard to find Futuras in my size. The Skwamas are great for sport climbing and bouldering and are a good choice for just about everything except pure slab routes and routes that require extensive toe jamming in cracks.

They excel at edging, heel hooking and toe hooking. They are comfortable and sensitive with just the right amount of flex. Velcro closures make for fast on and off. They edge much better than the Geniuses, probably because there is a little less rubber between your big toe and the wall.

They are notably less durable than other La Sportiva shoes such as the Futura. Nevertheless their great performance outweighs their disappointing durability (barely), and I recommend them.

I have these shoes for several month now. They are to the point where they will need their first resole. I use them exclusively indoor. Sizing/Comfort/Break-in: Out of the box, they are very tight across the forefoot on me (I have very thick feet).

I have Katanas and Miura VS in 39 and I don’t recall a more painful break-in period. First 10 sessions or so I cannot wear them for more than one climb. Now they are fully broken in, I would consider these my all day comfort shoes.

They feel 1/4 size looser than a pair of old 39 Miura VS; it could also be the more symmetrical last also. If you are used to Solutions, these feels shorter and wider even though they are build on the same last.

These heels on these are also softer than Solutions and easier to get into. They are also a tad softer in the midsole than the Solutions (for what it is worth, the midsole on the Skwams are 0. 1mm thinner).

Performance: Most of the time, I can trust them on the tiniest foot holds (say 1/4″ wide, quarter size). Even sized comfortably for me, I trust them completely on edging. You sacrifice a bit of comfort when edging compared to XS Edge rubber shoes, but they stick well.

The half sole design make them very responsive on high feet where you have to dig in with the big toe and pull through with the feet. The rubber on top of the toe makes toe hook a breeze. You’d think the slit in the sole on the forefoot is a bit gimmicky, but it does help the shoes conform to volumes and slopers.

The rubber on top of the toe makes toe hook a breeze. Longevity: I have these for about 7 months and I climb on average two times a week with them. The outsole wore down to around 1/4 of its original thickness around the big toe area.

I think this is decent for such a sticky rubber. However, I only climbed on plastic with these as I prefer a harder rubber outdoor.

I work in a bouldering gym and climb 3-5 days a week. I’ve been wearing these a long while. I’m on my second pair. There is definitely a pressure point on the knuckle of my big toe. It feels like there’s a seam there inside the shoe.

Initially it was very painful but I stuck with these shoes because the heel fits perfectly without any deadspace or pressure on my achilles. I have a weird callous on my toe knuckle now so it’s less painful but not ideal.

I’m about 5 months into this pair and the velcro does come undone while climbing so I won’t be taking these for a resole. But, even despite these things, I’m still using them for lead and easy bouldering days so I guess I’m happy with them.

I just wish those two things were improved. For sizing, I went with my street shoe and I won’t downsize these personally. I mean, I guess I wear a thin sock in there now (the toe knuckle thing) so there’s a little extra space.

But if I’m coming off the wall it’s definitely not because a tighter fit in these shoes would’ve made a difference. Sometimes it’s just the wrong shoe (I wouldn’t use these for slab) or technique.

This is my first aggressive shoe as I have used Tarantulace from La Sportiva for 4 years. It took me a while to find the right sizing for this shoe, had to go up 1. 5 from my street size (was a 6 and went to 7.

5). I have used these shoes about three times now and at first, it was very uncomfortable because my toe knuckles press against the top of the shoe which is uncomfortable – this is why I had to size up because it was painful to walk in my regular street shoe size.

It took a few sessions to get used to this feeling (not sure if it’s just because I have never worn an aggressive shoe, switched brands, or is the style of the shoe). Would recommend this shoe overall as it has performed well for me so far.

You just need to be careful about sizing and would need to give it a few sessions to get used to the knuckle problem (if that’s not just specific to me). Not the shoe for you if you want comfort. Highly recommend trying it out before purchasing.

I was a long time fan if the 5. 10 anasazi low volume. So I was looking for a shoe with similar performance and I have found it in this shoe! In fact not only found it but exceeded it!! The fit and feel is very very similar to the anasazi LV with one major exception the heel!! Wow! It is damn near perfect almost no dead space which for me, in any shoe I have tried previously, is completely unheard of.

I sized these in my street shoe size and whilst very tight (big toe completely knuckled up) once broken in they are comfortable enough to wear for a couple of hours without any pain. I usually wear my shoes a little bit more relaxed so I do intend to to size up a half size for a more comfort all day fit.

I have found this trax rubber to be just as sticky as c5. I have been climbing in them mostly indoors 3-4 times a week for about 3 months and no real sign of wear around the toe (where my anasazis always wear through).

So overall a great shoe.

30 years ago almost to the day I bought my first pair of climbing shoes, the all new La Sportiva Mythos. I loved them then gave them away when i hung up my rack. Present day… my 10 year old gets hooked into the sport and I gotta purchase all new gear for both of us… $$$ ouch.

However, much to my surprise and delight my Mythos are not only still available but exactly as I remember them despite some other reviews: “They’re not as good as the originals. ” Hogwash! There’s no substitute for suede against your feet, just like a deerskin glove in my opinion.

And got that matter, a well built shoe that you can renew over and over. Lastly(no pun intended) there are two items I dislike in any shoe: Elastic & Velcro. They are no match for a good lacing system and the Mythos unique system emphasizes this principle better than any climbing, laces or no.

A few notes on size: I’m a consistent 9 Men’s D(regular) width in every shoe and boot I own except La Sportiva. Their Mountaineering boot Makalu 42 was too short. The Mythos is just right at 41-1/2 but they stretch after a few sessions and I like them snug so the 41 is ideal for me.

If you have wide feet these may not work for you. The most important thing to allow for is the stretch. If they seem just a wee bit short or tight for a rock shoe then you’ll love them after several sessions in the gym or a day or two on the hard.

Personally I hope they never discontinue the Mythos but I’m getting a second, maybe a third pair in case and when the inevitable happens: they sell out to some main stream entity that ruins them completely.

Its really sad to see a tried and true product you have relied on go down in quality. I love this shoe and have been wearing it since I started multipitch climbing 8 years ago. I used to have this shoe +laces last multiple seasons.

After 2, weekend trips to Yosemite and a 6 weeks of climbing in the gym 1-2 days a week the laces have completely ripped and the rand is wearing significantly fast. I usually expect a pairing climbing shoes to last a bit longer then this especially when they are designed for this purpose for crack climbing!! La sportiva I love your shoes and want to use them but this makes me want to look somewhere else.

Please work on your quality and laces and I will reconsider thank you.

I have owned about seven pair of the old Mythos over ten years, and many of my friends had pairs of these as well. We all agree- this is a terrible new version that has very little in common with the previous Mythos.

It feels cheap and plasticky. The rubber is not as sticky and feels thick and clunky on edging (used to be the real feature of the Mythos). The laces are cheap and lacing not fitted. The body doesn’t;t mold to the foot as it used to.

All in all, a different and awful imitation of what used to be an excellent shoe. Why did you do this, La Sportiva?.

I bought these online after hearing rave reviews. I’ve been climbing on and off for 7 years and looking to up my game in edging. The top of the heelcup on these dug into my achilles so badly I was unable to flex my foot properly, while at the same time the material around my ankle sagged out so much I could fit three fingers down into the shoe.

They looked ridiculous on me, the lacing system left extra material all over the top of the shoe in a hilarious way. They were not oversized. The structure of the rubber on the bottom of the shoe and toe box fit perfectly.

I would not be able to climb outside in these, sand and dirt easily would slip into the gaping sides and down into the shoe. Somehow the fit was simultaneously way too big and way too small. I don’t have narrow feet, and I think if I did these would sag even more ridiculously around the ankles.

I typically love La Sportiva shoes, but these were a miss for me.

This shoe lives on edges and in pockets. I use it for both bouldering and sport climbing. For my own experience and talking to others it really does seem like this is the best all-around climbing shoe you’ll find, living up to it’s billing as a ‘quiver-of-one.

‘ It takes slightly longer to break in than most other climbing shoes. I’d say after about six climbing sessions and you’re well on your way though. After that expect to wear them about an hour before you have to take them off between climbs, if you’re not already doing that.

The biggest strength of this shoe is its edging capabilities. You’ll feel and trust your feet on the wall. The only (slight) downside is that is doesn’t heel hook as great as I would like it to. Maybe if I downsized a half-size more it would feel a more secure in its heel hooking, but the trade-off in comfort doesn’t seem worth it, and really it’s pretty decent in this field.

It’s just not winning any awards here. For sizing, I went down 1 size from my street shoe (size US 9 to EU 41). That’s been a great fit. For comparison, I wear a size 40 in LS Mythos and and a 41 in Scarpa Vapor V.

I have had the same pair of Miuras for over 5 years (have resoled them twice), and when I put them on it feels like the shape of my foot has been imprinted on them. I pretty much only do indoor bouldering, regularly climb v6, and have found these serviceable in pretty much any situation.

Like Shamans, the Miuras are a stiff shoe, so they will edge better on tiny footholds but won’t smear or walk on volumes as well as the softer competition-style shoes like the Solutions, Dragos, or Zenists.

That said, I find them perfectly suitable for smearing. My street shoe size is 9. 5 men’s US / 42. 5 EU and my Miuras are size 42. They are incredibly tight, painful until I get warmed up in them, and if I bought another pair I’d consider getting 42.

5. I have wide feet. Like most Sportiva shoes, these are NOT vegan and use leather, which would dissuade me from buying them again, as I’d prefer a vegan, lower-carbon alternative like the Evolv Shaman.

I am extremely impressed with this shoe. I find it precise and powerful in its transfer from foot to rock. It truly feels like laser precision as the p3 platform and other internal technologies (XSEDGE) keeps this shoe stiff on edge and powerful over the big toe.

I have been a diehard Miura and Testarossa fan but for vertical and slightly steep terrain this is fast becoming my go to shoe. I have not tried it on granite yet. Sizing wise i wear this in the same size as my miura and testarossa and I’ve been mostly happy.

I will say that this shoe seems to be more tailored to a lower volume foot and has a bit less asymmetry than some of the other La Sportiva top performers that I typically prefer. For this reason I find the break in under my mid foot to be a bit more painful but it continues to break in and especially after wearing them in the shower for 10 minutes.

This thing excels as vertical to slightly overhanging edging, not as much a performer for super steep cave terrain. There are a few durability issue is had with my first pair, the tongue ripped out of the stitching on one side, the rubber edge started to delaminate and separate, and the velcro strap separated into two pieces.

Abnormal durability issues given my usual experience with Las sportive shoes. It is amazing to me that La Sportiva continues to come out with more and more specialized shoes that perform as well as they do in their particular niche.

Just don’t ever get rid of the miura and mythos.

This is my absolute favorite climbing shoe! I started off climbing 2 years ago with the Black Diamond Momentum. From there I went to the Scarpa Origin. I then switched over to the La Sportiva Oxygym and went through two pairs of those (and trying a few Five Tens and the Mythos along the way) before settling on the Otakis.

I LOVE this climbing shoe. I love it so much that I’ll be heartbroken if they ever discontinue it. These do great for sport climbing both inside and outside. They are also great for bouldering, though when I boulder outside I generally use my La Sportiva Muiras because I am panicked about ruining my Otakis.

In reality, I just need to buy another few pairs of Otakis! After breaking these in, they feel as if they were made to fit my feet. I’ll definitely be re-soling these as many times as I am able. My husband loves his Scarpa Vapor Vs, which are similar to these, but for me, the La Sportiva Otaki just fits way better and is comfortable and fun to climb in, even though it is considered an aggressive shoe.

Definitely give these a try, I don’t think you will be disappointed! I went 1 whole size down from my street shoe size.

I climb 2-3 times a week, mostly outdoors on slabby 10’s – I’ve been using the Otaki’s for about 4 months and they are almost at the end of their life. It’s a shame bc the rubber is still in great shape, but it’s just all detaching from the leather/suede of the shoe.

Maybe climbing during the Texas summer has something to do w that? Not sure. That being said, these are incredibly versatile shoes – trad, sport, bouldering, or gym. They are just the best combo of comfort and aggressive.

I will continue to wear these to the bitter end, and then buy another pair.

This model was not available at my local REI, so I had to buy online. I upgraded from the La Sportiva Tarantulaces, and the veloces were significantly smaller than those! My street size is 40 EUR, and I was a size 38 in tarantulaces.

After learning that veloces run half a size bigger than other scarpas, I bought a 38. 5 in veloces. The shoe is soft and has a wide toebox so 38. 5 is wearable, but I feel like a 39 would’ve still fit snug but less painful lengthwise.

These performed well, they are sensitive and grippy, and the heel rubber has been helpful for getting some new sends, but my biggest gripe with this shoe is the durability. I expected these to be less durable due to the soft rubber, but just 4 gym sessions in, the rubber started peeling off on one of the shoes.

My tarantulaces didn’t do this until 10 months in. Quite unfortunate especially at this price point. Definitely do not take these shoes outdoors if you get them. Overall, those are good if you climb mostly indoors and are looking to upgrade from an entry level shoe.

They just weren’t durable for me.

I often have a really hard time finding shoes that fit my feet – my heels are fairly high volume for a woman, but my feet overall are so small I can’t find men’s shoes that are small enough (I’m wearing EU 36.

5 in these). Usually with most women’s shoes, if the fit is good in the heel width then they are so long I can curl my toes away from the front, or the length is good but they pinch way too much on my achilles tendon and the pressure point under my ankle bone.

I was hesitant to try these because so many reviews rated the fit poorly, but then I realized those reviews are probably from people with narrower feet who are more used to finding shoes shapes that work for them.

If your feet sound like mine, give these a try. Performance wise I’d say they’re a good moderate shoe for indoor sport climbing or bouldering. The toe downturn is noticeably more helpful than a flat shoe, but it’s not Instinct or Solutions level of toeing in.

Edging on the outside of the shoe isn’t perfect but totally serviceable if you have fine footwork. Really good heel hooks (again though, may be specific to my heel shape). Quite sensitive and flexible through the midsole so you have a lot of foot control.

That plus the velcro closure system makes it easy to personalize the fit around the midsoles, so these really felt like wearing socks. These won’t be the best shoe to break out for sending that overhung V9 project with tiny chips and I think the sensitivity could make it hard to climb big wall or trad, but I’m very happy with them as my go-to bouldering shoe (particularly given how hard it is to fit that right shaped shoe for my feet!).

I decided to dive headfirst into bouldering and needed a pair of beginner shoes. I chose these because I wanted a velcro closure that felt good on my feet and didn’t break the bank. I read lots of guides and got some in store help on what size to get and was largely pointed toward going true to size or even a little smaller.

Ended up with a pair that were close to my regular size (44 EU. for reference I wear 10. 5 US Men’s in Chuck Taylor’s). Way too small. My understanding is climbing shoes should be kinda tight but not painful.

These were absolutely painful after about 30 mins in the gym. Took the 44s back and ended up sizing up to a 45. Much better for a beginner shoe. Still snug, but I’m not in pain at the end of a bouldering session.

All in all I’ve liked these shoes a lot. My only real issue is the rubber on the outsole is fairly hard, so they don’t always grip the smallest holds all that well.

The shoes themselves are absolutely amazing!! Unbelievably comfortable, super grippy rubber, beautiful design, great craftsmanship. Genuinely nothing to complain about with the shoes themselves, which is why this review gets a 5 star! However, Backcountry kind of messed up their sizing listing so i had to refund and reorder so beware of that when purchasing!.

the new update ,looks and feels like a solid update ,on the classic anasazis. the shoe has a snug fit without being painful straight out of the box; slightly more aggressive than the original but with a noticeably more sturdy heel and stiffer midsole.

the added rubber on the toes might prevent the edges peeling away that happened with my original anasazis. hopefully they will perform just as well on the rock.

Comfortable and durable. Not my favorite all-day shoe (that is reserved for my Grandstones), but I wouldn’t be disappointed if it were the only shoe in my bag. It’s currently being used as my crack climbing gym shoe.

I’ll probably end up getting them resoled with Vibram XS Edge, as Adidas ruined the C4 rubber. Then they may get used outdoors more frequently!.

I’ve been using Solutions for years and absolutely love it for everything except multi-pitch. My only sticking point (pun only partly intended) was that the perfectly fitting heel was like an ice pick, which is great a lot of the time, but it makes it hard to use your heel on smaller or smooth features.

The Solution Comps have a softer, stickier heel that I wish the Solutions had, and the top of the toe is also softer and more comfortable to toe hook than the Solutions. The toe itself is equivalent between the two as far as I can tell.

A couple of little things to mention: Sizing – I went with a half size smaller than my Solutions (which are tight, but not painful). It hurt like hell the first time I put them on, but they broke in fast and that size-down was perfect.

So if you’re going from Solutions, I’d recommend sizing down a half size unless your Solutions so tight you can’t wear them for a whole session. Heel fit – My heel fit the original Solutions perfectly.

Even sized down, the comp heel doesn’t fit quite the same or as well. Occasionally an air pocket creeps into it, which never happened with the originals. Maybe that’s the tradeoff for the softer heel? In any case, it bothered me on the ground, but I never really noticed it on the wall.

Even with the tiny bit of space in the heel, it was tight and soft enough that my heel didn’t slip inside the shoe when heel hooking. Ultimately I think this is still worth trying out if you love Solutions but want a softer heel.

Also if you have neither and want to try a new aggressive shoe, this is a hard shoe to beat.

I have and really like the 2nd version of the Solution; but this model is substantially more comfortable, at seemingly no decline in performance. I am an average Gym/Outside climber, so take my opinion with a grain of salt; but after receiving these and trying them out immediately versus my current pair, I greatly prefer these.

The new heel, which resembles the Miura’s, Skwama’s and Katana’s is just nicer all around than the old, bulbous, rigid heel. Front end seems identical, and I can climb the same routes with the same precision and performance.

So, If you liked Solution I and Solution II, I think you would really love this 3rd iteration! To William R. below: My street shoes size is 11. 5-12 and no = I have not experienced any stretch. My forefoot is kinda wide, and my 3rd toe on both sides protrudes more than it should; so I DID use a shoe stretcher to slightly widen the forefoot because of my peculiarity, but nothing major.

FWIW: My Solution IIs are size 46 and my Solution Comps are 45. 5. I do not like super tight shoes. The 45. 5 size is probably what YOU would prefer for performance, maybe even 45. The Comp’s seem a tiny, TINY bit larger than the Solution IIs, maybe because of the softer, more forgiving heel.

You see this shoe worn by so many Pros for a reason, it performs. I typically wear soft round toe shoes which has forced me to use a slightly different technique when edging. Using said modified edging technique in the Solution Comps literally stuck me to the wall.

The edging on these is almost a cheat code. Ill admit the overall fit isnt my favorite and Im still getting used to it especially when using the heel but the edging, power, and precision is unmatched.

I can thread-thru match on the tiniest edges and maintain full tension when climbing inverted. I wanted a edging specialist and I went with the best.

My perspective on “lace shoes” for rock climbing included words like “troublesome/ difficult” to put on. But once I tried these on (no socks), I knew I had to get them because it fit like a glove and my feet were wrapped tightly but also felt very secure in place.

The hardest part was to choose the right size (should I go with my street size or 0. 5 size up to feel even more comfortable). However, I’m glad that I read many reviews and saw the recommendation to go down even up to 1 full size.

My left foot was slightly bigger than my right foot (6. 5) so I had a bit of a dilemma going in my head. After contemplating, I went with a 6. 5 because I know it will stretch. My first time in the gym did feel uncomfortable but second time putting them on felt much better and it didn’t disappoint when climbing on the rocks.

I would never go back to getting strap shoes or rentals (eeww). My recommendation is to give these a try and you will not regret getting them!!! It may not be for everyone, but just try all of them to know which style you prefer.

I’ve been indoor climbing for about 6 months now, with varying frequency on how much I go weekly. I don’t personally feel that the rubber grips super well on volumes but I don’t usually climb them anyways so it isnt too much of a downside.

I don’t usually wear shoes much so I’m not sure my exact shoe size (maybe somewhere around a US 12) and if I recall, I purchased these in EU 45, could’ve gone down to an EU 44. 5. They fit snug for about 4-5 months with some extra space in the heel but heel hooks haven’t been impacted by this.

Lately they have been a little baggier than usual but I only feel my feet slipping when walking, not necessarily when climbing. After a while, the blue dye does stop leaking from the material. Toes have some slight wear and tear but nothing out of the ordinary.

*** Note: My shoe is the previous years model/color, but essentially the same shoe*** This was my first climbing shoe and was great. However, as I began climbing hard and more frequently, I busted through the toe rubber in about 3-4 months.

After this, I upgraded to Scarpa Vapor’s which was a great upgrade and a shoe I still use today for gym climbing. Now you’re probably thinking, why am I giving these a 9/10 recommendation and 5/5 stars? Well, I remembered how comfortable they were walking around the gym for long periods while still holding up well on moderate to hard routes.

So, when I saw some barely used ones for sale at an REI garage sale, I decided to scoop them up again. Now, they are great shoes that I let new climbers wear when they come out with me AND I have found them to be PERFECT deep water solo shoes.

It’s obvious these are perfect shoes for beginners, but they have been absolutely perfect for DWS. They are super comfortable to wear while chilling/paddling on the kayak, the flexible material makes them super easy to put on in the water, and I feel that the rubber hold just as sticky when wet.

Having to trust wet hands and shoes can be hard, but I’ve found that I haven’t had to compromise at all with these! In conclusion, I would definitly recommend these shoes to a beginner or someone who has a lot of recreational DWS around!.

I’m a size 9 woman’s – depending on cushioning, width, etc I can go up to 9. 5 or down to 8. 5, but generally a 9. I have a pair of (not black diamond) rock climbing shoes that get uncomfortable around the toes if I wear them too long (I broke my pinkie toes and since then prefer a wider shoe).

So I bought these in a 9. 5 thinking it would give me a little extra wiggle room for comfort. Except when they arrived I couldn’t even squeeze my feet in them. I felt like Cinderella’s step-sisters – I’d have to cut off my toes to get them to fit.

First I think they must have sent me the wrong size by accident. Nope, the inside of the shoe is clearly labelled 9. 5 USW. Out of curiosity I measure the shoe – it’s 9. 5” long or 24. 1cm (and that’s measuring the outside of the shoe, so it’s a little smaller than that for your foot).

That’s a 7. 5 USW shoe size, 2 sizes smaller than what it should be. A 9. 5 USW should be 10. 2” or 25. 8cm. I check this website, notably the size section to see if they meant actual inches rather than the shoe sizes.

Nope. For some reason they are blatantly lying about the size of their shoes. I don’t understand why but I guess I learnt my lesson about assuming that a standard size would actually follow the standard and therefore I shouldn’t buy shoes online since I can’t try them on.

I thought people just had good pain tolerance but it actually doesnt scrunch my toes or squeeze the width of my foot. I am a 6. 5-7W in street shoe and went with a 7W in this shoe. I first tried a 6.

5W and it was too tight on the width of my foot. I was told by a fellow climber that a mens style equivalent size (5. 5M) would have the same length but wider toe box. This was NOT true. In fact a mens style of equivalent size is shorter with same toe box width.

I had to spend a lot of money up front to try the diff sizes and then return the ones that didnt fit. I had to paid for return shipping which was $35 for me. Wish i could have just tried these things on in a store but all my local Mecs and Sails were out of stock of the sizes i needed.

Glad i found an actual comfy not just tolerable shoe in the end.