20 Best Engine Oil For Toyota Corolla (2023 Updated)

The 0W-20 oil I use in both a naturally aspirated four cylinder and a turbocharged four cylinder engines. The manufacturer recommends the 0W-20 synthetic motor oil. At over 120,000 miles, the naturally aspirated four cylinder engine burns NO oil and remains at above the “add” mark for over 7,500 miles.

The turbo four has less than 50,000 miles and does not burn oil. the average MPG is above the manuracturer’s claim. cannot recommend highly enough,.

I’ve been using Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE oil in my 2016 Honda Accord, direct injected 2. 4L since 6200 miles. First oil change after engine break in, OE oil came out and Mobil 1 AFE 0W-20 went in. After 6000 miles of service using Mobil 1 AFE, the oil level dropped about a quarter of a quart as expected.

The OE oil evaporated over 6,000 miles as well and is normal for anyone concerned. I check the oil at every fill up at the gas station and keep the oil in the trunk. I live in a dry, very hot, dusty climate and a lot of stop & go traffic.

Under my current environmental conditions, it doesn’t make sense to purchase a higher end Mobil oil and risk leaving the oil in for a year or when the oil life monitor says to change the oil. 5 to 6 thousand miles or every 6 months between oil changes in Phoenix is cheap insurance.

I change it for peace of mind and ensure proper care of my engine. This oil has excellent flow at low temperatures and when you start your car after sitting overnight. Engine is very quiet and smooth when first started.

Quick flow is what prevents wear during starts and Mobil has it figured out with this oil. MRV viscosity @ -40 degrees Celcious for this oil is 9200, never seen a spec like that. Most other brands usually only list specs down to -35.

A lot starts happening that is important at these extreme low temperatures and there is a big difference in oil performance between -35 and -40 celcious. Hard to beat the specs of Mobil 1 AFE. Great product, readily available, competitively priced and just as good if not better in my opinion over OE oil.

Mobil 1 always seems to perform with high end products, highly recommend!.

I’ve honestly used a number of different oil brands in my F250 now; there’s really only a few brands that can go the distance with my twin turbocharged F250 Super Duty! All the others seem to break down and lose their viscosity rather quickly! Castor is my go-to for my trucks oil every time to keep that motor protected and allow it to run at the highest peak it can possibly run on at all times! Of course the only place that never lets me down in knowing that what I need for my truck, including the motor oil when it’s calling for it! Is Oreilly’s every time! Hands down no doubt about it!!.

2013 Malibu eco 60,000 miles. Because of the known issue with the weak piston rings and severe blow by on the 2. 4L engines, I was adding about 2. 5 quarts of oil in 5000 miles. Check oil every 500 miles.

Switched to mobile 1 full synthetic at about 35000 miles. Nothing changed. Changed to Pennzoil at 45000 miles. Used about a quart and a half in 5000 miles. Changed to Castrol edge titanium full synthetic at 55000.

Always Used same weight. 5w30. It has used less than a quart in 5000 miles and although it’s hard to measure by eye it does look like less blow by from port on valve cover when hot at idle. Looks like this is the new oil for the Malibu from here on out.

i use this oil for years Motul 7100 10W60 with no problems, but this time oil was contaminated and not usable. it had debris and geld off oil in new bottle. It plug up the funnel and defiantly would plug the suction screen on oil pumps.

If did not cough it in time would cost me the motor on ktm530exc. Switching to other oil now. Dirty oil. Not paying 20$ a liter to filter new oil.

I have always used Motul Ester based oils in my Harleys. This synthetic oil has superior lubrication and cooling qualities and will outlast conventional oils. I highly recommend it for any air cooled bikes.

I was a little apprehensive about the natural gas, but after I did some research and video watching I understood the benefits of it and also, I work at a Jeep dealer which uses it, I made the switch and was amazed at what it did!!! My grandfather used Pennzoil in the past with my first Jeep, Now I’m officially the newest member to the Pennzoil family! Now for my 2017 Jeep Wrangler 4 door Big Bear, I’ll be using the world class protection of Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic! I really recommend it for all of the Jeep models including my 2 favorite models, the Wrangler and the Grand Cherokee! Pennzoil really does the job in the very hot heat and very cold New England weather.

So, if anyone has a Jeep, I strongly suggest that you use Pennzoil Platinum!.

I had a quick rattle on startup 2007 Mustang 4. 6 L @ 58K miles. I tried other premium oil and filters and was beginning to think it was a more serious mechanical issue. I switched to this oil and a (another brand ultra-synthetic) filter (because they don’t sell Pennzoil filters in my area), and the noise was instantly gone.

From the first crank, no more. Startup is smooth, quick, easy. Motor and car run noticeably smoother. The product says it provides the same protection as 5W-20, so I’m covered there. Looking forward to trying this stuff out.

Beware, the cheap, thin, flimsy bottle cap these clowns use on these bottles will leak oil into your trunk and ruin everything. Want to waste days trying to get synthetic oil out of your trunk and items, buy this.

A completely avoidable disaster if Pennzoil would just provide a decent bottle and cap. This happened TWICE. The 1st time I thought it might’ve been my fault, but the second time I am sure. Do NOT buy this product until they provide a decent container and resealable cap.

A proper review of LUCAS OIL would take a few years and a mechanical and microscopic examination of a disassembled engine. THIS, isn’t that. What I will tell you is that Lucas is a long-standing brand and used by shops around me for decades.

Both chains and independents carry it. Summit has the Hot Rod jugs available which most local stores do not, and it’s faster to grab through Summit than wait on the local supplier to special order. It’s MINERAL-based not paraffin-class oil and I prefer that for long-term use.

It’s also a dino oil. That’s superior for run-in (2K-10K) miles before deciding to go full synthetic. Same trick I use with diff gears.

Having just spent a fortune on having my 1961 Cadillac engine rebuilt, I was strongly advised by the mechanic who did the job to use this oil for the first 1,000 miles, changing it at 500 miles. Apparently, the high zinc content prevents wear on the new components.

It might be a bit more expensive than other oils, but using cheaper oils in this context could easily have been false economy. I have no complaints about the oil at all, plus it was delivered really quickly, I just wish it was more widely available.

If you are considering this oil, I would strongly recommend it, you won’t be disappointed.

What do Mobil 1 synthetic Oil, Fram oil filters and Quaker Jalapeno Grits all have in common? Me, my wife and my truck. My trucks have used Mobil 1 oil since 2002, I have used Fram oil filters since my first new car in 1967 and I have never had a problem with either.

My wife and I have loved Quaker Jalapeno grits since they have been making them, but are sometimes hard to find. Now the point of this review is that I change my oil about every five to six thousand miles which coincides with our usage of twelve boxes of grits.

But instead of driving 35 miles round trip to purchase these items, I simply log onto Walmart. com and order them. Within 1 to 3 days Fedex drops them at my doorsteps saving me a couple of hours time and about 3 gallons of liquid gold gasoline.

Convenient, time and money saving. What else can I say but Keep it up Walmart and I will keep on shopping. Thanks.

Over time traditional oils degrade O rings and other rubberized or plastic components that they come in contact with. Not to mention the caustic cancer causing risks associated with these standard oils when they come in contact with you skin.

And after personally experiencing some valve cover gasket and engine seals starting to seep and slowly drip oil it was suggested I switch over to a full synthetic or blend to combat this issue. I think that was the smartest thing I could’ve done to remedy some of the problems related to conventional oil! I now own a pickup truck and I will only use synthetic oil in it as well as any other vehicle I own throughout my life.

The extra cost of synthetic far outweighs the “cost” of conventional oils. When you look at long term effects and damage caused by regular crude oil vs the synthetics with their longer time between oil changes and their durability, the choice should be a no-brainer.

I’ve used mobile 1 since I can remember. My Z just turned 202k. Been running mobil 1 in it since I purchased it with 25k on it. I’m very tentative about how I change oil as well, I drain, refill with new, run it for a few minutes to clean out what’s still in the cooler, block & lines etc, because I just don’t believe in dropping the plug and draining what’s in the pan.

Then after it’s run with the new oil I drain it and use compressed air thru the oil filter Orpheus to completely rid every drop of oil remaining in the system. People poke fun and say I’m crazy, but they then wonder why my vehicles last ridiculously amounts of mileage never requiring repairs.

I’ve done this with all my vehicles and it’s proof that it works, and Mobile 1 products are what they say they are. Ive disassembled engines after running mobile 1 products and am always amazed how clean they appear internally.

Laugh all u want about my method, but my odometer always tells the tale and dispells the haters. Mobil 1 products are the ONLY products I will ever use in my vehicles, hands down no question.

Bought my 2011 Nissan Frontier in 2014 with 48,000 miles. Used Ester oil until it became 15. 00 qt. Savey mechanic said use Mobil 1 full synthetic high mileage up to 20,000 miles. Glad I did, my truck now has 202,700 miles on it and actually runs better then the ester oil did.

When I took it in this last time the mechanic said he could not believe how clean my engine was for the amount of miles it had!!! Let me know my engine is still strong. Of course the dealership tried to get me to trade it in.

hahahaha NOPE.

2012 Jeep Liberty with 248,000 Miles. Have been using Mobil 1 synthetic oil since day one. Mobile one high mileage full synthetic since 100,000 Miles. I changed the oil every 6,000 miles and use a K&N or Mobil 1 synthetic oil filter.

I do add one quart of Lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer on every oil change. Combination of full synthetic Mobil 1 and Lucas I feel like I can get 500,000 miles on my vehicle. I would recommend this oil to anyone who has a high mileage vehicle.

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic for my cars for the last 30 years. This allows me to change the oil once per year thus saving the environment (and my pocket). In the early days, Mobil used to advertise the oil as being good for 25K miles (I remember the ads stating you could drive around the world) – nowadays they have dropped those claims – I think to pad their pockets.

I lived in Germany for 3 years and bought a new BMW 3 series while I was there – I drove about 50K kilometers during that time – only towards the end did the BMW dealer recommend an oil change because of the synthetic oil that was in the engine.

In Europe they hardly ever change the oil less than 2 years unless there are a lot of miles on the car – in the US, we waste a lot of oil and damage the environment because of the marketing pressure to change the oil at less than optimum levels.

I would strongly recommend using this synthetic oil as they are the ones who started it.

Provides slightly better fuel economy than Audi’s recommended Castrol, about 1 MPG better on the highway. Never had an engine problem using it in my 1999 and newer Mercedes cars for the past 15 years.

Not a good choice for the the older classic cars that need sulfur in the oil (dino oil) to expand older engine gaskets so that they don’t leak. Bought my used 1958 Mercedes off the Mercedes-Benz dealer’s showroom floor that was covered with oil; apparently they had put this oil in that car when it was traded in; drove it home, put in conventional oil and the leaks stopped.

I feel secure driving my car when I’m using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. I also compared the price between Costco and AutoZone. Fellows I was surprised that AutoZone price was cheaper by a few cents. Good job AutoZone.

I’m sure if there anyone out there with the same experience I had please blog it for the community to find out and take advantage of the savings and most of all is your personal time.

My Yaris has 265K and runs and drives like new. My secret is 5K oil changes with Motorcraft 5W30 and this filter. I change the ATF once a year with Idemitsu fluid which is the same juice the car came with.

I like this filter as it’s pre lubed. For the newbies, make sure you take the plastic off before installing your filter. Also make sure the gasket is intact on your old filter. You don’t want a double gasket which causes your engine to blow out oil! Use what came with and what’s specified for the car.

Good quality parts and correct fluids are a small price to pay versus a new engine or trans. Just my two cents worth.

Using this for last 2000 on my 2000 ZX-9R which I flushed w Motul flush prior to the Lucas w K&N filter. The oil after mostly longer rides is still pretty clear and clean in the oil window. I am expecting to get 3000km-4km easy out of it.

I do not believe this oil is semi either, hard to find info but believe it is conventional. However it has held up well and bike sounds great on it engine does not allow to many new noises. Sitting at 47300km.

I will probably drain and oil in itself and retain the filter till next drop getting 6-7km on it. Then I may move to Maxima semi or full synthetic 10w40. For now this 10w40 Lucas is working well and no consumption either.

I bought this last year about this time to change oil for winter storage. I decided to go ahead and run it in the bike for the season this year since I knew I would not be riding a lot of miles and no aggressive riding compared to usual years.

I have been using 300v over the past few years so I will compare to that. After about 1500 kms of just commuting to my shop and a few evening rides for enjoyment this oil started isbehaving. It got very dirty looking for some reason.

What bothered me about it is that shifting did not feel good at all. We know the difference of feel between crappy oil and nice oil when shifting. This felt on the crappy end of the spectrum. I have not had the oil tested nor do I ever intend to.

I also know that the 300v is not usually a correct choice but I was doing some pretty hard riding in some hot conditions for long days at a time. I am going to move to 7100 and give that a try. I will likely never come back to this oil.

I have used this product in my ‘Diesel’ (non two stroke) since its second oil change and at 66K and 11 seasons, I would say it’s doing its job. This is a semi synthetic oil, which my owners manual says is suitable for my engine, but do check your manual before you start using the full synthetic.

In a conversation with the Motul people at Laguna a few years back, I asked the oil life expectancy of this product. They recommended around 5200-5500 K is the max a consumer should go, so that works out to a season for most of us.

I’ve been using Motul 7100 full synthetic oil on my bikes up to now so thought I would give this semisynthetic 5100 a try. I like the full synthetic because of the red colour so my only gripe is this oil is not coloured, making it harder to see oil levels through site window.

Not that big a deal but it would be nice.

Previously, Shell included foil seals inside their bottle caps for Rotella so the purchaser could verify the contents had not been tampered with. When I opened my latest purchase there were no seals.

(Had someone used the good oil and replaced it with a cheap substitute?) I called the phone number listed on the bottle and was told Shell is no longer using seals but has gone to a cap which is supposed to split at the bottom the first time it is opened.

The split is very subtle and hard to detect. Might be a good reason to consider a more secure brand.

My 1979 Volvo 244 DL with 231000 km has been treated to Shell Rotella T4 10W30 since Sept. 7, 2019, odometer at 215477. The overhead cam/valve sound is quieter at 3000 R. P. M. on the 400 series highways at 100 km/h.

The rear crankshaft oil seal has stopped seeping oil this year. I used to use synthetic oil. I can experience that Shell Rotella T4 10W30 oil really agrees with the 2. 1 L, B21 A naturally aspirated gasoline engine.

These are long-lived engines, and anything I can do to prolong its life is appreciated. Thanks, Shell engineers, for the extra protection of Z. D. D. P. for the camshaft lobes!.

Used this in my all Jeeps for many years straight 6 blocks flat tappet tractor engines. This has zinc in it which is good for older inline 6 cylinders mostly all my Jeeps I’ve owned over the years made it over 200,000 miles my current Jeep is 2004 grand Cherokee 4.

0L engine it only used shell rotella T4 10w-30 it now has 216,000 miles still going strong! However the zinc is little hard on catalytic converter I’ve changed 2 on this Jeep over all years I had it bough it brand new off lot back in 2004.

Couple off roaders swore by it years ago I switched over to it years ago and never looked back.