15 Best Cylinder Heads For Ford 302 (2023 Updated)

edelbrocks were my first finned aluminum heads for a flathead–25 years ago–and they were o. k. for a 239 or a 255, due to small combustion chambers. but these’ll work on a “large” engine and flow, too.

and if you want to use a high-lift cam or supercharger; that’s no problem, either.

stud kit is of poor quality everything else in my order was good quality. can I send the stud kit back?

Very limited suppliers of flathead parts always look to speedway for my hotrod items

installed the heads on a 1978 460 bored out .060 over went from 500 hp to 551 hp @4900 rpm on a dyno 8/9/19. 546hp @5600 rpm also had 630 ft-lbs torq@ 4400 rpm. LOOKS AND PERFORMED GREAT.

These heads are always perfect, but could use a little bowl work thanks team SUMMIT

You MUST flycut the valve reliefs on the pistons larger if using stock pistons. Expensive mistake. You are better off buying model 5023 with 1. 9″ intake valves since they bolt on easy with no modification necessary.

The product is a great entry level/cheap head though so 5 stars! Keep the RPMs under 5,500 and valve lift is more like. 500 max! You can see the marks the intake valves made so you can clearly see the reliefs are not big enough (as in diameter, not depth).

Great performance – didn’t notice any quality issues or burred edges when they came in. If you’re using stock pistons, get the version of these heads with the smaller intake valves (Part #5023). Otherwise, pair these with some flat top pistons with the correct valve reliefs.

I used a set of forged DSS 8720-4030.

Put on a 351w in a 1979 Tbird. Absolutely no complaints, tons of flow and tons of fun. Best heads for the price.

I wanted to built a great runing, mild street motor around a stock sbf 302 short block. These heads have the right size valve for those piston. Actually, everything about these heads helps the little 302.

Better compression then stock, better breathing then stock. Not to mention the 50lbs you lose off the front. Its all a win,win. Well, I got about 500 miles on the engine now and couldnt be happier about the build.

quick fuel 650 performer rpm intake these heads smallest trick flow cam. stock rebuild,. 040 roller short block A little lope at idle but it pulls everywhere in the rpm range. Great velocity with these heads.

Great top end with these heads also. No problem coming off corners at low rpm in higher gears and the pull in the higher gears on top is amazing for what I paid for them. When I set the carb I get a bouncing vacum needle at idle, Ive been told thats a sign of a sticking valve.

These heads are coated with assembly lube out of the box. I would suggest pulling the vavles and wiping everything down. I didnt and I think some of that lube got burned on the valve seat and causing it to not seal but, will have to open it up to find that out.

either way, Im so thrilled with this product that im picking up the 205s for a fast engine build.

You wont find heads of this quality at a better price anywhere. Speedway and Try-State Cylinder heads both stand behind this product. I am running them on a 302 and purchased this set for a 351 build.

They don’t flow as well as some of the more expensive options available but they flow way better than OEM cast iron heads. These are perfect for a street build and the price is outstanding!!.

Perfect fitment, good quality heads on a budget! I recommend purchasing ARP studs and guideplates for perfect rocker alignment. The supplied ones are generic and poor fitting. The heads alone are excellent fit and quality.

I was actually pleasantly surprised at the swirl polished valves and the large spring pockets for if you want to run larger springs with a monster cam! I think I’m in love, lol!!.

It’s not a good time to be building a performance engine. The supply chain issues are eliminating a lot of choices. I passed over a different set of heads at the recommendation of my machinist. These were available in stock and have the right size intake valves so I grabbed them instead.

They show to be suitable for the 221-302 Ford Small Block. But the springs they come with are for a hydraulic roller cam. I’m using a fairly mild flat tappet cam, so growing the installed height of the springs by 60 or 70 thousandths woul put both the seat pressure and open pressure weill within specs for a flat tappet cam.

The intake valves all have. 09 of shims installed so they look good. Exhausts have only a. 030 shim. So I’m into changing springs, retainers, locators, etc. on a brand new set of heads. Suddenly these heads aren’t so appealing.

I personally don’t think a prospective buyer should have to learn about this issue by reading reviews. It should be in the product description and specs.

I installed these on a factory 302 HO in my ’94 Mustang. At idle when vacuum is the highest the valve guides leak lots of oil into the intake. After idling for a couple of minutes the engine will start smoking horribly.

I first installed an oil trap in the PVC thinking something went wrong with the piston rings. It collects next to nothing. I called AFR about the problem and their only suggestion is to install a crankcase vacuum pump.

The problem is the oil drain back passage has very poor alignment with the block and the valves are sitting in a pool of oil. When the vacuum is high, the intake is sucking oil through the valves. A borescope down the intake revealed lots of oil in the intake runners near the valves.

I HAD TO CHANGE OUT THE SPRINGS FOR ONES WITH MORE PRESSURE DUE TO VALVE FLOAT AND I AM ONLY RUNNING AN E303 CAM. WITH THE STIFFER SPRINGS I REALIZED THE PEDESTAL MOUNT ROCKERS WOULD MOST LIKE FAIL SO I MACHINED THE PEDESTAL PADS, DRILLED AND TAPPED AND INSTALLED HELI COILS FOR ROCKER STUDS.

IF YOU DO THIS BE SURE TO USE PERMATEX #2 ON THE INTAKE STUDS. DON’T USE ANYTHING ELSE OR IT WILL LEAK. I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE. THE NEXT ISSUE WAS VALVE SPRING INSTALL HEIGHT. ONE WAS OFF BY. 015 AND THE REST WERE.

030 AND 2 OF THEM WERE. 045. THAT IS UNACCEPTABLE IN MY BOOK. THE FIRST SET I PURCHASED WERE LIKE THIS AND I INSTALLED WITHOUT CHECKING THEM. I SENT THEM RIGHT BACK. THE NEXT ISSUE IS THE RECOMMENDED INTAKE GASKET FEL-PRO 1262.

The gaskets do not indicate which side goes out so be careful and don’t do what I did and install them with the raised seal facing the intake side. I assumed that’s how they went and I also used the end seals.

Both of these options caused an internal vacuum leak because my intake sat low and the end seals did not let the intake ports seal like they should have. My fault for not setting the intake on the engine to check my end gaps.

Install the gaskets with the raised seal towards the head and it will fit the ports much better. if you have over. 125 of gap at the front and rear ends and you are running a blower or a turbo then I would suggest making some spacers to take up the gap on the ends because anything over.

125 of silicone is likely to blow out. Other than this the heads flow nicely on the street. I would however like to be able to buy a set of heads and not have to go through them like I had to with these.

First of all…. These heads are really impressive!!!!!! I understand why now they are so much more money! They are Worth it…. Guys if you want to make serious power…. This is where you must spend the money….

Do not compromise…. AFR, makes it easy!.

These are perfect for their intended use, the street. I used them with a Comp Cams 274XE cam and a QFT 600cfm carb. They pull much harder through the midrange than the 351W heads they replaced on my 302 Ford.

Very nice , Made in USA quality and same price as off shore heads.

Edlebrock is one of the few companies making great performance parts for small block Fords. Great bang for your buck with these heads. Outperform many more expensive parts. Autozone has a great price on these heads.

Dells are ok computers. My first ever computer was an HP Pavilion PC, and they’ve always been my favorite brand since then. I’ve had several other brands, but HP has been the best. Any who, this is a work laptop, and it started out pretty fast, but over time, it eventually slowed down.

My first work Dell was super slow and sluggish, so I was sent a new one. I work in IT, so I know a good laptop/PC when I use one. This one appeared great at first use and for a couple of months. It is now becoming sluggish, and I get LBSOD issues frequently because of the wifi.

The connection with metered networks (or connecting to your phone’s hotspot) appear to deteriorate over time, and causes this error. Also, the visual aesthetic is pretty plain, and the laptop doesn’t have a sleek feel to it.

If I were to shop for a personal laptop, I’d never consider this laptop based purely on what it looks like. I bought an external mouse/keyboard because the distance from the keyboard and mouse to the edge of the laptop are a bit far for my small hands.

Typing on the key kaed is cumbersome. Using the native mouse is awkward. All in all, I’m not a fan of this series from Dell.

Not even close to what I thought I should be getting in a brand new set of heads. Flashing in ports was unacceptable. When we tore apart the first head it was full of shavings and one of intake valves was super tight and one of the exhaust valves was bent w/.

010 runout and wouldn’t come out of the head without a lot of force (we never took it out). Single angle amateur valve job and it was pretty sad looking… At this point I called edelbrock and they gave me the song and dance so I called Jegs and they issued a return.

Thank you Jegs!!! Edelbrock not so much.

very poorly packaged, opened it and there was no screen protection sheet between screen and keyboard. There was dust and paper bits all over the keyboard and screen!! The term ‘refurbished’ was definitely stretched here: the screws are different colors from the black casing, the bottom rubber footers are looking like they have decayed so that the laptop wobbles, the side has a port that was left wide open with a broken/cracked piece and then when you try to open it, the screen side sticks to the keyboard side like it has a gummy residue of some sort on it.

it still has the vista 7 sticker on the palm rest area. it boots up ok but not as fast as my other i5 laptop. unfortunately I missed the return window due to illness. would love to return this ‘old jalopy’ back!!!.

After spending an hour on the Edlebrock Tech line we determined the instructions are out of date relative to the current product being delivered of the 5073 head. Not sure about the 5089. Fig. 1 on Pg 2 instructs the used to drill 3 holes if a 400 block is used.

The holes are also there in a 350 block and Felpro gasket as well as the 5073 head. No drilling is required since it appears they updated the manufacturing process to eliminate this need. There are still 6 other steam holes not present in the 5073 head that are in the 350 block circa 1972.

No mention of those holes in the instructions. We came to the conclusion 4 were 2 close to the sparkplug bore and 2 were to close the the intake runners to be safe to use on the 5073 aluminum head. It was honestly a guess on my part and the Tech had no additional information or opinion to offer.

The runners are as cast and a bit rough. There was also drill flash from the machining of the bores for the valve guides and spark plugs. This could easily cause a hot edge and create premature detonation of the charge.

The Tech was nonchalant about this and stated these are a lower end part. True but it seems excessive to me. Though I rated the overall part as good, the areas that really count are just average.

I’m not sure what has happened to Edelbrock, but their quality control sucks. Meaning, their AQL is very low. I have used them for over 35 years and never seen something like this. I purchased these because I needed some better than stock, but not full out race heads.

What I got was good, but the quality control person should not have let these go out the way they are. What looks like parting lines are huge in some places, one exh runner has a “stick” of Aluminum protruding into the runner (pic 1).

Pic 2 is a spot next to a water port on the intake surface where it looks like the facing tool tilted some. Pic 3 shows what looks like an area of casting slag that was missed when they were cutting and cleaning out the valve seats and runner.

I expected cleanup, but not like this. If I wasn’t on a time crunch, I would have returned these heads. I’m just hoping the new Edelbrock intake that arrived yesterday is better than these.

The heads are awesome and fit great! But when I received them the box was almost completely destroyed and when I took them out of the box 2 valve springs and retainers were off the stud and loose in the box.

Luckily I had the tools to put them back on but this could have been a issue and made them not bolt on heads.

I’ve built 302/347 engines with stock heads, Roush180/Windsor Jr. , and Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads. These heads are screaming on the 302 I just built and are great quality. Especially for the price, I would buy them again in a heartbeat.

To clear up a few questions, the combustion chambers are 60cc, not 64cc. The recommended spark plug for your typical application is the Champion 792 plug, gapped at. 035 (which I am using). The rocker studs are 7/16, not 3/8.

My build is a 306, 9. 8:1 compression, TFS Stage 1 hydraulic roller cam, 1 5/8 headers, Summit Stage 1 dual plane intake, Edelbrock 650 AVS carb. I would guess I’m somewhere around 375HP @ the flywheel in this build.

One thing I found particularly awesome about these heads is the spark plug holes and threads. The holes are just big enough for the spark plug socket, which guides it in perfectly. It’s useful for when you have a tight engine compartment and headers in a Falcon.

The spark plugs are also positioned well, and I can’t foresee any interference with any headers. 45 degree spark plug wires work great with these heads.

Purchased a long block on CL. It came with aluminum heads that were way too big for the cam and my use. Bought these and compared to the other (PC). Huge difference in quality. Valve stem heights all the same, decent springs, work fine for my rolller cam, good fit and finish.

Cheaper than some rebuilds. Great option.

I was wondering how these heads would work on my 97 5. 8l F250hd efi roller engine? Would it mess with the computer really bad. I have a Eldabrock Performer intake,msd distributor and 6al box and a 61mm bbk throttle body.

I changed the thermostat so it would dump alittle more gas in her no problems so for. Will these heads work well?.

These are perfect for the low compression big blocks of the mid to late 70’s. I am building a budget 440 RV motor that should be a monster street tire smoker for under $3000. Low mileage 440 from an RV, Hughes Whiplash cam and lifters, E-Street heads and RPM intake topped with a Quick Fuel Brawler 850 double pumper.

This combo has been dyno’d at 460-ish hp at 5000 rpm and 550 ft lbs of torque at 2000 rpm.

pulled heads out of box, one head was in very nice shape, ready for service. the second head had not been full deburred from the milling process. extreme amount of burrs left all around the rocker shaft mounting pads.

disappointed discovering this situation. second time I have been disappointed with Edelbrock. I am through with their products.

Street 512 Mopar motor in a Dodge Dart . Better than fighting with iron cylinder heads. Help keep from being nose heavy.

Had to mill out some (- one hour with a Dremel…), to get my stock distributor clamp to fit. – Other than that it was OK…